A Long Walk for a Bowl of Soup

I’m off to a late start this morning. Christine went swimming, and I waited until she got home so we could have breakfast together. But I’m on the road now. As I walk east along College Avenue, I watch two well-dressed men, laughing, photograph a power pole. I spot them again a few blocks away, and they are still laughing. I wish I’d heard the joke. The elm trees and their canopy of cool shade remind me of Richard Powers’s book Overstory, which I finished on Saturday, particularly the account of chestnut blight, which, like Dutch elm disease, destroyed forests throughout eastern North America, although the chestnuts, according to Powers, were like eastern redwoods in size and age—not something one could say about the comparatively short-lived elms. “Short-lived”—although their lifespan outstrips a human’s: my anthropocentric misunderstanding of trees says a lot. My pack is lighter today; I’m carrying less water and food, which could end up being a problem later. This might be my last walk before I attempt the Bypass, and I wonder if I’ll be able to cover the distance in three days, perhaps with occasional deliveries of water. I want to make that journey before classes begin. I notice a janitor spraying herbicide on the playground of Crescents School. Is that really necessary?

It was cold this morning, but it’s getting hot now. I spot a poster on a streetlight: an orange cat is lost. Fragments of plastic from the car accident still litter the sidewalk, and the downed NO PARKING sign has been removed. At the corner of Albert Street, the boulevard planting includes tall corn plants, rudbeckia, and the inevitable petunias. I turn north. Someone has scattered peanuts all over a bus shelter: transit squirrels? I push the beg button to cross 15th Avenue. Maybe I mention beg buttons too often, but I’m interested in counting the number of times that pedestrians have to wait for vehicle traffic, and I’m curious about whether green lights are shorter if the beg button hasn’t been pushed. I’m distracted this morning, thinking about the Bypass walk. What’s missing from my pack? I haven’t put in a toothbrush, or a little bottle of aloe vera (I’m sure to get sunburned), or Rolaids (a quick treatment for heat exhaustion). Do I need another notebook? Do I have the cables that connect my charging battery to my phone? I seem able to walk upright now; with the lighter pack, I’m not bent under its weight. I notice a mask abandoned next to the sidewalk. Two young women, wearing masks, are waiting for a bus.

At 13th Avenue, the beg button is broken. I wait to cross. The sidewalk is still closed at Victoria Avenue, so I cross to the other side of Albert with a cyclist and a woman with a stroller and a parasol. One baby is in the stroller; she’s carrying the other on her chest. She looks tired. I stop to look at the vacant lot at Victoria and Albert, the legacy of a failed condominium and hotel project, but also of a failed housing policy: after all, the building that used to stand here, the Plains Hotel, gave shelter to many people who could afford nothing better. There is spray paint on the sidewalk—an omen of more construction? An office building has become “executive suites.” Are there that many executives here who need furnished apartments? I cross to the other side of Albert, accompanied by a woman carrying a shopping bag. An impatient motorist creeps up behind me on the crosswalk. At Saskatchewan Drive, other drivers frown at me. I walk through the underpass beneath the Canadian Pacific tracks. There is trash everywhere, and more pigeons than I remember. Magnetic tape is unspooled on the sidewalk. City workers are collecting garbage behind a row of trees. A cyclist passes me, then walks his bike up the small hill that leads out of the underpass. A dead sparrow lies in the harsh sunlight.

There is a long lineup to return bottles and cans for the deposit at Sarcan. I nearly step in dog shit, but I’m warned by a cloud of buzzing flies. A cardboard cat-scratching pad sits next to a building. I cross Dewdney Avenue, and wonder if the city council will decide to change its name. A car alarm honks. A sign reads, “Longevity is a blessing, funding it is a challenge. We can help.” More businesses have closed, and more storefronts are for rent. I drink some water. Across a vacant lot, flowers have been painted on a shipping container. I step over pamphlets about HIV and hepatitis C, and abandoned playing cards and empty coffee cups. A dead mouse lies on the curb. The International Church of God, a sign tells me, is on the second floor. There’s not much fruit on the volunteer chokecherry next to an auto parts store. I cross 4th Avenue. Outside Tim Horton’s, two little girls climb on a bike rack as it if were a set of monkey bars. A billboard urges us to vote by mail. I turn west on Avonhurst Drive. I can feel my pack getting heavier. I’m walking under mature elm trees in a neighbourhood that’s about as old as me. A Purolator driver delivers a package, and a dog barks. 

I press the beg button and wait to cross Elphinstone. There’s a sudden cool breeze, which doesn’t last. Avonhurst Drive becomes Argyle Street. I cross Sherwood Drive, where a discarded rubber glove lies on the sidewalk. I see another mask, tossed next to the sidewalk. It’s close to noon now, and it’s getting hot. I stop in the shade of a tree and take a drink of water; then I cross the Ring Road on the overpass. I haven’t walked this way for a year or two. A child’s blue wading pool lies under a stoplight. A woman wearing a face shield boards a bus. I turn west on Sangster Boulevard. A row of tiny cedars has been planted on the north side of a fence; maybe the shade will help them survive. Another mask lies beside the curb. The sidewalk ends, then begins again, and then ends; pedestrians seem to have been an afterthought when this neighbourhood was designed. I walk past a lovely front garden, with sunflowers, herbs, and fruit trees. It’s the kind of garden that says “I care enough about this place to work hard,” although since I like to garden, I’m biased. It could just as easily say “I’m privileged enough to have the time and money to make this nice place for myself.” 

I push the beg button and wait to cross Pasqua Street, an extension of Lewvan Drive. There are eight lanes of traffic here, and the green light gives me 30 seconds to cross them. I walk north in an alley and, when the alley ends, on the grassy right-of-way, under sweet smelling poplars—no doubt the reason for their common name, “balsam poplar”—and beside sunflowers and strawberries. I cross a pipeline right-of-way and think about the number of pipelines that cross this city. Then I walk through the Home Depot parking lot. My stomach and my watch both say it’s lunch time. I cross Rochdale Boulevard and turn west. There are roses and crabapple trees and buffaloberry trees next to the sidewalk. A city worker is pruning and weeding the Virginia creeper. I startle her without meaning to, and wonder if she’s surprised because nobody walks this way, or because she doesn’t feel safe even in broad daylight. 

I’m in a school zone now, and perhaps it’s because the reduced speed is enforced by photo radar, according to a sign, but the traffic is slow and I feel much safer. There’s a skate park across the street, between a public and a Catholic high school. I stop for lunch—Thai soup—and when I leave, I smell woodsmoke in the air. I wonder if it’s from the huge fires burning in California, or if the source is nearby. A kid on a skateboard is making a video in the parking lot; other kids with skateboards are there. Later I see the kid with the camera speeding south on a busy street in the middle of the road, riding against the traffic. Kids think they’re immortal. A middle-aged man in a black Corvette plays the Eagles’s “Witchy Woman”: too many clichés for one sentence to bear. Children cycle past. I cross Rochdale and head south on McCarthy Boulevard. I see a rabbit on the lawn of the Catholic high school. It bolts when it sees me. A ladybug crashes into my face. A baby poplar tree is growing out of the lawn at the base of a streetlight. I cross back over the pipelines. Behind me, a muscle car roars through the intersection. An ancient orange Dodge van chugs past. Hiphop rumbles from a car waiting at a stoplight. I push the beg button and wait to cross McCarthy Boulevard in the shade of an ash tree. A 50-year-old Mercury, lovingly restored, passes me. I’m acting like a little boy, noticing all the passing automobiles. I hear some chickadees in a tree, and realize I’ve heard very few birds today. Why is that? Could it be the heat? Have they started heading south already? 

Sticks lean against a power pole in an imitation of a strange pagan rite. I’m full from lunch and rather uncomfortable. I cross 9th Avenue North. On the other side, cyclists pass me, and I smell burning fat coming from a burger joint. I suddenly think that I have nothing to say about this tidy suburban neighbourhood, that all of its strangeness has been pared away. Then I notice a sign asking pedestrians to watch for a lost cat, and footprints imprinted in the sand left over from the winter, and the cars parked in the bicycle lane, and the plastic Labrador retriever sitting pretty on a front porch, and I realize that some strangeness is still here. Besides, I’m strange enough, this big, sweaty man carrying a big pack and a camera, intently taking notes about what he sees, and worst of all, walking. I’m feeling my plantar fasciitis now, but it’s not that bad. There’s an abandoned house near one corner. I hear a roofer’s air hammer. I cross 1st Avenue North and see a lone bur oak between clumps of spruce and fruit trees. It’s hotter now, and the traffic is loud. The heat must be getting to me; I mistake a short wooden post for a small dog. As I realize what I’m looking at, a real dog starts howling. I decide to take a rest break under a popular tree, next to a wolf spider’s nest in the grass. I feel sweat trickle down the small of my back. I’m tired. The tree’s exposed roots have been damaged by lawn mowers. There’s a haze in the air to the south—could that be the California wildfires? I read an article on my phone about the environmental damage that will be caused by the provincial government’s $4 billion irrigation scheme. Then I stand up, haul my pack onto my shoulders, and start walking again. What are we to do when our leaders are hellbent on ecocide? I’d never vote for the Saskatchewan Party, but they’re likely to be re-elected. Then what? Why do most people here support this government? It is a mystery to me.

I notice another abandoned mask on the sidewalk. Someone has set up a hose to spray a cooling mist onto their patio. It’s a nice idea in the heat, but it’s also a waste of the water that’s piped 100 miles to get here, especially since nobody is sitting on that patio. It’s empty. The water is just adding to the uncomfortable humidity. Tall plants with pink columnar flowers line the boulevard, and bees and cabbage moths are feeding there. Dogs bark. I wonder what those plants are; I’ve never seen them before. Is this a deliberate planting? A low rumbles comes from the city sewage pumping station. I cross 4th Avenue. My pack straps squeak with every step I take. I cross the creek, cut through a gas station, and head east on Dewdney Avenue. The boulevard planting here is another mystery. It looks like someone has bought one of those wildflower mixes that are sold at garden centres and planted the seeds here. It’s very colourful, although to call it “wildflowers” is probably a misnomer, since nothing I can see is actually native to the northern prairies. I cross the creek again, and notice the ducks and geese paddling about. There are no red-winged blackbirds here, though, and no robins, and the creek is silent without them. I pass another face mask, and a plastic poppy left from Remembrance Day last November. I cross Dewdney—the south side looks to be shadier—and a dog on the north side barks and runs towards the road. It’s called back by its owner, but I wonder if I just missed getting bitten. 

I pass Optimist Park, with its baseball and football fields, surrounded by tall lights for night games. I pass Luther College and turn south to walk alongside it. My plantar fasciitis is hurting now. I walk into a street of wartime houses—those wooden prefabs built for returning veterans. Air conditioning hums. I notice a front yard vegetable garden, but it’s been neglected; the spinach has bolted, the peppers are withered, and I wonder what happened. I turn east on 11th Avenue. Mosaic Stadium looms in the distance. Sage grows in a lawn, the ghost of the prairie. I turn south again, on a street of postwar bungalows. I can hear children in one of them, loudly disputing the results of a game. I stop on 12th Avenue to listen: silence, just the whir of a pair of grasshoppers on someone’s lawn and the hum of an air conditioner’s compressor. It’s too hot for any activity. Everything is still. A stamp on the concrete sidewalk reads “1962.” The sidewalk is older than I am. I mistake the sound of an idling pickup truck for a locomotive on the CP tracks a block away. I can feel a blister forming on the sole of my left foot, in the usual place. I hear the traffic on Lewvan Drive. 

Then I’m at the footpath under the CP tracks. I walk in the shade of spruces, Russian olives, and poplars. Then I’m at 13th Avenue, and I’m nearly home. I push the beg button and wait to cross Lewvan Drive. I wonder if 30 seconds will be enough time to hobble across. When I get to the other side, I smell artificial flavours—bubblegum, fruit—and wonder where the smell is coming from. Next to the sidewalk, sow thistle grows as high as my armpits. I consider stopping at 7/11 to buy some ice cream, then decide against it. Two young women jaywalking across 13th stop traffic; a rabbit, running across a minute later, does the same thing. I stop to take a photograph of a demolished house and continue walking down an alley. Gravel crunches under my feet. Tall goldenrod is covered in delirious bees. Behind a fence, a small dog barks. I turn east on 15th Avenue. I stop again and listen to the same silence I heard before: distant traffic and air conditioning, someone spraying water from a hose. Otherwise, it is quiet. I decide to cut through the park. I cross the newly mown football field, pass the community art centre, and exit onto College Avenue. I have three blocks left to walk. And then I’m home. I take off my boots and my feet are damp and pruny—a warning about removing my boots when I stop to rest. I shouldn’t need that reminder, but I do feel silly in the city, sitting somewhere, barefoot with my acrid socks lying beside me. Maybe on the Bypass I’ll feel a little less ridiculous.

Walking with a Goal in Mind

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Christine and I leave the house early and walk down the alley. We’ll accompany each other around the smaller half of Wascana Lake, then I’ll head off somewhere and she will go home. We stop almost immediately: a baby robin has been crushed by a car. I wonder if it’s the one that wouldn’t get out of the way a couple of days ago; I had to reverse back down the alley and drive around the block to get home. Maybe it fell out of the nest before it was able to fly. There’s nothing to be done. Across the alley, a solitary sunflower catches the morning sun.

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My heavy pack feels a little lighter this morning. Am I getting stronger? My camera is swinging around, though, hitting my stomach, and it’s very annoying. The morning is cool—the temperature is autumnal—and we wonder if we should be wearing sweaters. Christine is walking quickly, but she has no pack; I do, and I’m breathing heavily, trying to keep pace with her. She walks down the middle of the empty street, but I’m more cautious, and I stick to the sidewalk. A sprinkler sprays someone’s grass. A homeowner is weeding his tidy lawn. A man is doing something at a little free library, either borrowing a book or leaving one behind. Christine points out the guerrilla garden at the corner of Angus Boulevard; she’s particularly taken by the sculpture that incorporates a teacup. There’s another planting at the end of the block: squash, sunflowers, tomatoes, beans, and a bunch of flowers I don’t recognize. Don’t tell anyone; if the city knew, they would mow it all down.

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A dog barks. We walk out of the shady street into the sun, and a squirrel runs across the road. The beg button at Albert Street works immediately; traffic stops, and we walk across, under the elms and onto the lakeside path. Christine has forgotten her sunglasses. We stop at Samuel Uko’s memorial beside the water. I consider putting down tobacco—there’s some in my pack—but it’s really not my tradition, or his, and I wonder if it would be an insult. What would an Elder tell me to do? I imagine the late Noel Starblanket, who suggested that I should put tobacco in with my seeds when I plant the garden. He would tell me to put the tobacco down, and so I do.

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The willows beside the lake need pruning. Pelicans glide overhead. We walk together on a short cut, over wood chips instead of on the paved footpath. Samuel Uko’s death weighs on me: the racism of the hospital’s response to his crisis, the lack of mental health treatment in this city, in this province. Heads should roll, but I’m sure nothing will happen or change. A family out for a ride parks their bicycles at the overlook and take in the lake. Boaters row past. The wind is getting stronger. There are pelicans floating on the water, and a crow patrols the shore. Gulls cry. I notice fruit on the path, and realize that I’m standing under a crabapple tree. Christine asks why I’m not using my walking poles. Wouldn’t they help with the weight of my pack? Yes, is the answer, they would, but to take notes, I need both hands free. The leaves are already turning yellow. 

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We pass Bar Willow and are followed by the smell of frying onions; the chef is cooking brunch. The parking lot is being resurfaced. A couple sets off from the beach in their canoe; the man, in the stern, is using a kayak paddle. An alert dog and its owner pass by. Geese are floating on the lake in a straight line. A jogger stops and begins making high kicks, like a Rockette. There are more canoeists using kayak paddles; maybe that’s a trend. The water is rough, and the stiff breeze is blowing foam onto the shore. Above, a gull hovers against the wind. 

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A gaggle of geese starts honking—because Christine has gotten too close, I think—and poplar leaves tremble in the wind. The geese have eaten the grass here down to the nub, leaving wormwood plants behind. Flags and paint mark a buried SaskPower cable. Young ducks are eating grain left scattered on the shore. An elderly woman removes her hat and starts running. Two women pass by, walking a smiling dog. The trees here are a mixture of willows and Scots pines. A cyclist passes, going too fast for the busy path. Multi-use pathways require common sense, and there’s a shortage of that. I remember walking on a similar path in Ottawa, and watching pelotons of middle-aged men zip past a young mother who was trying to get her toddler to put his shoes back on. So many men display a thoughtless and selfish refusal to consider the needs of others when they’re cycling, and not only then; rather than recognize where they are, or their responsibilities to the people around them, they retreat into fantasies of riding in the Tour de France. I meet a lot of men like that today.

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Christine turns to follow a desire path to the lake, and I follow, somewhat reluctantly. The footpath is covered in gravel, and I wonder if it’s a desire path after all. Maybe the park authorities respond to unofficial paths by covering them with gravel? A recumbent willow tree leans away from the water. Two kingbirds argue, squeaking and chirping and whining, perhaps because we’re watching them. A crow squawks. The signs that indicate what direction we’re supposed to be walking—a nod to social distancing—have been torn out and left beside the path. Park employees would’ve taken them away if they were no longer needed. Was it the wind, or was it covidiocy? Ducks are swimming close to shore. I notice a memorial to Ross Thatcher, the right-wing politician from the 1960s, that I have never seen before. It’s beside a rosebush. A lost teddy bear lies beside the path. A trio of British sportscar enthusiasts sit on chairs beside their convertibles, parked at the side of the roadway. A cyclist is finishing repairing a blown tire.

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Christine decides to walk to the tipi where Tristan Durocher is on a hunger strike. She wants to show support. So do I, but I’m not sure he needs a big môniyâw hanging around this morning, and I haven’t brought anything tangible: no water, firewood, or tea. I decide to keep walking towards Albert Street. Durocher probably doesn’t need any more empty-handed looky-loos, although I’ve tried to show support in other ways; I sent an e-mail to the province’s minister of rural and remote health, for example, for all the good that will do. This government doesn’t listen once it’s made up its mind. Besides, I find the suicide crisis in the province’s north very upsetting, and Durocher doesn’t need my tears. Later, I read a Facebook post that describes the racist abuse Durocher has been getting, and I realize that I should’ve walked over with Christine. Maybe I’ll take some tea tomorrow. 

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The cycling family passes me again, and I notice that the father is a serious rider: he’s wearing cycling shorts and shoes. We cross Albert Street together. I decide to walk along the creek towards the city’s northwest for a change. I haven’t gone that way in a long time, and I wonder if anything has changed. I hear a siren, and an ambulance passes. The straps on my pack groan and complain. There are dying elms not far away, and I wonder if they have Dutch elm disease, or if they are suffering from root compaction after the heavy equipment built the flood-control berm next to them. Dogs bark behind me. Joggers pass. One woman asks if I’m walking the Trans-Canada Trail. Oh, no, I say, just practicing for a hike. Two women are walking towards me; I hear the words “asymptomatic” and “kids” and wonder if they are talking about the province’s feckless and dangerous back-to-school plan. 

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A row of bur oaks is taller than the last time I walked this way, and a pet store’s logo has been added to a light post. I think about how walking while taking notes is different from the way I used to walk; I’m less likely to drop into a meditative state now, because paying attention tends to keep me focused on the here and now, even when that’s not necessarily fascinating. In The Rings of Saturn, W.G. Sebald shows how walking can enable an interior journey. Paying attention, taking notes, is a different experience. Is the notepad my interlocutor? How much has the way I walk changed since this spring, when I started carrying a pad and a pen? I see bushes covered with red fruit; my friend Kathleen asked if I knew what they are, and I don’t, except that our neighbours had them when I was a kid, and my parents were sure that the fruit was poisonous. Nothing eats them, so that’s a good guess. A fellow passes me and asks, smiling, if I’m practicing. He can see what I’m up to. I’m sweating despite the cool wind, which tugs at my hat. On the other side of Elphinstone Street, where the path becomes a sidewalk on 17th Avenue, a black ’57 Chevy glides past. Someone has written “R.I.P. FIDGET GANG” on a sign warning of thin ice, and I wonder what that’s supposed to mean. 

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I cross the footbridge over Wascana Creek. Weeds are choking the water. I turn onto the gravel footpath beside the creek. Two boys with a net walk past. They don’t answer when I ask what their quarry might be. A mud puddle sits in the usual place. The willows beside the creek provide shade. Dead dogwoods hang over the water. I wonder if they were killed by beavers, girdled during the winter. I sit for a moment on a concrete retaining wall. The purple loosestrife on the edge of the creek is new. A duck swims by. Cyclists pass. I wonder what an unfamiliar shrub might be. Alder? Does that grow here? I think about the walk my friend Hugh is organizing in southwest Saskatchewan, and realize I need time to prepare to teach in September. Could I go for a day or two and then come home? I could use a break, and it would be a tonic to see friends I haven’t seen since the spring, and to see some grassland. But I need to be ahead of things when classes begin, or I’ll be playing catch-up for the entire semester. I stand and walk through the underpass beneath Pasqua Street. The water seems high here, perhaps because of the rain. The underpass beneath Lewvan Drive follows almost immediately, and I can hear the traffic rushing by above me. The Manitoba maples along the creek here are new, as are the weeds on the other side of the path, easily as tall as I am. When I’m in the underpass, the traffic noise disappears—I only hear silence and the wind—but when I emerge, I can hear the cars and trucks again. 

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I walk towards the willows where I once saw a hawk. I think about the pictures my friend Luba posted of a hawk sitting in her backyard in Toronto, and I wonder if the hawk I saw here was a Cooper’s hawk. It’s possible. A cyclist passes wearing a bright red jersey. The weather reminds me of walking this spring: windy and cool. The dog park at 13th Avenue is busy. I climb up onto the flood-control dike—carrying this pack, I feel every incline—and notice that people are letting their dogs swim in the creek. Is that a good idea, with the toxic blue algae that always appears in August, fed by agricultural runoff, in the water? A excavator is piling dirt on the other side of the creek. A gopher whistles. I walk under the bridge across Wascana Creek on 13th Avenue and see a training hauling containers heading west. Then I hear its horn at the level crossing nearby. A strap on my backpack blows in the wind and flicks at my ear. There is fresh graffiti on the train bridge over the creek. No golfers seem to be playing at the Regina Golf Club; maybe it’s too windy. Big signs warn that the course is private, and I remember how, one Christmas, when the creek had frozen solid, Christine and I ignored those signs and wandered around on the course. A man on a park bench is reading, but he’s not chatty, even though (or maybe because) he appears to be reading poetry. Roses have grown through the fence beside the golf course; roses are becoming the floral emblem of this walk. Nearby, honeysuckle climbs that same fence. 

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I cross 11th Avenue into Optimist Park. I’d better hurry through; I don’t belong here. I have a drink of water and hear a train horn sound behind me. I check my phone and learn that I’m halfway to my goal for today—and to lunch—and I’m happy that my foot isn’t hurting. Maybe my plantar fasciitis is getting better. The trunks of the willows along the creek here have been caged with hardware cloth to deter the beavers. A little girl wearing a pink dress and a pink bicycle helmet rides by, following a man I take to be her father, and another kid in pink follows, with a woman not far behind. Another family out for a Sunday ride, then. Tall sunflowers—at least seven or eight feet tall—stand in a garden next to the path. A game of cricket is underway on flat ground beside the creek, a sign of how the city has changed in the 20 years we have lived here. The players even have uniforms—blue, green—and I wonder if this is an organized league. A blue stencil of a Mountie has been sprayed on the path. What’s that about? I sit down to rest again, and I wonder if I can reach my goal, if I can arrive at my destination.

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I text my mother. I’m worried about her; her friend Dorothy is in the hospital and Mom can’t visit her because of restrictions on the number of visitors the hospital allows. I start walking again and pass through the underpass beneath Dewdney Avenue. The wind blows grit off the sidewalk above into my face. I wonder if I’ll see Solomon, my Cree teacher, riding on the path, or maybe walking, given the wind today. I cross the creek on another footbridge and climb onto another flood-control dike. Solomon posts pictures of the animals he sees in his rambles along the creek here—otters, beaver, baby ducks—on Facebook; he’s a gifted wildlife photographer, although I don’t think he would accept that description. I find myself bending under my pack, walking deliberately, focusing on how my body is moving. The wind is getting stronger. I’m approaching McCarthy Boulevard. Should I keep going, or should I take a shortcut up McCarthy? I decide to stay on the path, partly because there’s a chance of running into Solomon. But I’m not lucky today.

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A soccer game is underway on the other side of McCarthy Boulevard. Spirea beside the path is finishing, its blossoms turning brown. I decide to skip a detour onto Prairie and Boreal Islands—I can come back another day to visit them. A kid is watching the soccer game, and a kite is caught in a tree. Sage grows in the grass beside the path. I check my phone again; I’m at 60% of my goal. Maybe I have two hours of walking left? Or would it be three? I’m not moving very quickly. I find a fruit bar in my pocket and eat it. A gaggle of geese blocks the path. Kids are fishing in Wascana Creek. I take a short cut across a lawn covered in dandelions. It’s wet; the sprinklers must’ve been on this morning. The wind pushes me off the path. I follow a desire path to another footbridge over the creek; it’s low here, almost blocked by the weir. The wind snatches at my hat. A buff, tanned jogger passes me. I check my phone; my mother hasn’t replied. I see another row of bur oaks, and a couple carries a bucket to the nearby community garden. I walk by the Paul Dojack Youth Centre, the local reform school, and wonder, again, if it’s true that the Regina Indian Industrial School was its predecessor on this site. When the pandemic allows, I’m going to have to visit the Saskatchewan Archives Board and ask to see old maps of Regina. I drink more water.

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There is a new foot crossing over the Canadian National tracks, complete with signals, so pedestrians are no longer encouraged to take the long and inconvenient detour back to Dorothy Street. I see no trace of the old desire paths where everyone crossed the tracks; they’ve been obliterated by the fast-growing weeds. When I get to the tracks, I smell warm creosote. Another golf course is across the creek; this one is busier. Cheery yellow potentilla shrubs are growing beside an inviting-looking bench; I’m tempted to sit but decide to keep moving. The sky is clouding over. A desire path leads to a housing development on what used to be a barley field; I remember walking there, picking and eating ripe heads of grain. I am becoming a mere stagger, bent double, my two feet (one starting to hurt) moving, one after the other, in a controlled fall. This is my normal situation at this point in a walk.

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I cross an unnamed street. I know that past the condominiums on the right, I will find a bench under some trees where I can rest. I check my phone again; I’m at 70% of my goal. My mother hasn’t texted. Those condos weren’t finished the last time I was here, but now it looks like they are all occupied. Wind chimes on one of the balconies serenades me. I see my bench, underneath some poplars, on the other side of a footbridge across a storm channel, and when I arrive there, I sit to rest. It’s the first time I’ve had my pack off in almost four hours. I sit and feel the cool wind on my back, the warm sun on my face. The wind is a gale now. A little boy cycles past and gravely says hello. After ten minutes or so, I stretch a little, shoulder my pack again, and move on. 

It’s always hard to walk after taking a break, and it takes another kilometre before I’m stepping a little more freely. I cross Sherwood Drive. Yellow toadflax is growing beside the path, along with yellow sweet clover and thistles in seed. I take a photograph of a cell tower. A robin scuttles across the path. He flies away as I fumble for my camera. There are several in the grass, watching us. At 9th Avenue North I press the beg button and wait to cross. The Coopertown development is still a canola field. The sign announcing its imminent construction—it’s been imminent for several years now—has been torn and battered by the wind. It looks forlorn, abandoned. Someone has spray painted a glyph of the planet onto the power poles. At Rink Avenue the footpath ends and I take to the desire path along Courtney Street. This hasn’t changed. Asters, daisies, sow thistle, and gumweed grow along the road. A crow flies overhead. A sign advertises a yard sale. I cross Dalgleish Drive and the desire path hooks right, east of the shallow ditch beside Courtney Street. This hasn’t changed, either. A dog barks at me. I cross the pipeline right-of-way. A circular saw whines behind a fence. The desire path is narrow and deep now, hard to walk on; this is the same as before, too. There’s construction ahead along Courtney Street; perhaps the city is putting in a sidewalk? 

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I turn right on Rochdale Boulevard. My destination is getting closer. My phone tells me I’m 80% there. Another dog barks at me. A weeping birch in the front yard of someone’s house has died. Still another dog starts up. Birds are singing in the trees—chickadees and sparrows—and in the distance I hear a crow. I can only hear them because the wind has dropped for the moment. I cross Rochdale Boulevard. I’m hungry and I’m looking forward to lunch. A gopher sees me, squeals, and dives into its hole in one motion. A kid cycles past, and another follows, screaming “Sydney” loudly; she’s on the verge of tears. An abandoned shopping cart sits next to the sidewalk. A hotrodded Vauxhaul—I didn’t know such a thing existed—roars past. I cross Devonshire Drive. The Vietnamese restaurant where I had planned to eat lunch is closed until four o’clock. I’d forgotten about their Sunday hours; they haven’t changed either.

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I press the beg button at McCarthy Boulevard and wait to cross. My phone tells me I’m at 90% of my goal. There’s another Vietnamese restaurant just ahead; I’m hungry for pho soup, so I stop and eat. Afterwards, I decide to carry on walking. I’m so close to my goal; why stop now? Two kids riding scooters are doing tricks in the traffic, and a discarded mask lies tangled in the Virginia creeper beside the sidewalk. There are more roses here. I call home and arrange to be picked up at the Shopper’s Drug Mart a kilometre or so ahead; that way I have to keep going. A pedestrian approaches, wearing a black mask. I’m limping now, but that’s normal, too. I step over a discarded sweater on the sidewalk. I cross Stockton Street and plod across the Superstore’s parking lot to the bench where I waited for Christine back in April. It’s another six or eight kilometres back home, and if I had more walking in me, I would keep going, but I’m happy with what I’ve accomplished. A young fellow says I look “ready for the mountains,” and I laugh. A crow patrols the parking lot. The wind yanks off my hat and I decide to hold onto it; I don’t need it now. My mother answers my text. It’s been a good day.

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Kittens and Pho Soup Walk

A lot has happened since the last time I posted anything here. I found a new job. I quit that job to return to school. Now I’m in a PhD program, focused on walking as an aesthetic practice. And my little sister died. I never intended for eight months to pass between blog posts, but I haven’t had time to walk or write or read anything outside of my courses. I haven’t even been walking to the university, partly because it was so icy in February and March (I fell on the ice and landed flat on my stomach and broke my baby toe, the one that always breaks), and partly because I had the flu for several weeks and was just too tired to walk. But, when the semester ended last week–when my papers had been handed in and my students’ grades submitted–I decided to start walking again. And, yesterday, that’s what I did.

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I went for a couple of short walks during the week–short, but long enough to blister my feet, so I wasn’t sure my feet would be able to stand a long walk. And it was hard getting out the door. My water bag had gone missing. My phone needed to be charged. So did my camera. But I had promised myself to go for a walk, on a familiar route: north and west along the creek to Rochdale Boulevard, where I would get a bowl of pho soup for lunch, and then back south again. And that’s what I did.

But first, Christine and I walked over to the local cat café. I had never been. The cats were playful, kittenish, and I realized how long it’s been since we had a young cat in our house. We only have one cat right now, Annie, who was old when we got her 10 years ago and must be around 20 now. Of course, without a phone or a camera, I couldn’t take any pictures of the cats for this blog. Such is life. After twenty minutes or so, we left the cats and their admirers to their work, or play. Christine carried on towards the city centre. I went back home, got my walking sticks and my pack and my phone–I left the camera to continue charging–and headed off.

I know what you’re thinking: why carry a phone and a camera? After all, phones have cameras these days, right? That’s true, but if a camera is in my pocket, and not slung around my neck, I won’t use it as much. I know that from experience. So this post doesn’t have many photographs, because I had to remember to stop and dig my phone out of my pocket when I saw something photogenic.

So I didn’t get any photos of the dead carp in the creek. I don’t know what caused their deaths. Maybe a lack of oxygen underneath the winter ice? And I didn’t get a shot of the cormorant I saw sitting in the water further downstream, a sign that not every fish in the creek died over the winter. But I did get a shot of this foursome about to tee off. It was the first day the courses were open, and the two golf courses I passed were busy.

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I walked past the abandoned beaver lodge–one of my landmarks on this path–and I wondered, as always, where the beavers are now. Did the park authority trap them out? They are hard on the trees, of course, and it’s worth remembering that every tree in this city has been deliberately planted, so protecting them is important. That’s why the trunks of so many trees along the creek are wrapped in chicken wire or hardware cloth, to discourage the beavers. Maybe that’s why the beavers left; maybe further downstream, in the Qu’Appelle Valley, there’s more to eat.

I also walked past a lively cricket match. This is not uncommon these days, but it would’ve been strange 10 years ago. Cricket, I think, is a sign of how the Queen City’s demographics are changing. Everyone on the pitch–that’s the correct word, isn’t it, to describe the ground on which cricket is played?–was south Asian.

At Dewdney Avenue, the path was blocked off. I figured the underpass was flooded. It happens. But how bad could it be? I stepped around the barrier and carried on. In the underpass, the pathway was flooded, but there was ice to walk on, and I figured I could get through without getting too wet. I was wrong. I stepped into the water and onto the ice. The ice shifted under my weight. I shuffled forward. The ice was floating and as I reached the far side, it sank. The next block of ice was several feet away. So I stepped into the water. It was deep–deeper than my boots–and cold and dirty. My pants and socks got soaked. I waded through the water and stepped up onto the next block of ice. It tilted ominously. I picked my way across, carefully, and eventually found my way onto dry pavement. “I won’t go back that way,” I thought.

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It was sunny and warm and windy, and the stiff breeze blew a winter’s worth of trash–several winters, perhaps–before it. I thought about David Sedaris, the way he picks up garbage on his walks around Sussex, where he lives. Maybe I should do the same thing, I thought. But if I did, if I gathered all the trash I saw, I wouldn’t be walking anywhere. I’d just be picking up trash. There’s just so much around: years of coffee cups stuck in bushes, plastic bags stuck to branches, trash flags snapping in the wind. “If you stopped to pick all this stuff up,” I thought, “you’d never get up to Rochdale and you’d never get a bowl of soup.” Plus I had no gloves, no garbage bag, nothing. Sadly, selfishly, I put that idea away.

What do I think about as I’m walking along? Nothing really. Sometimes I wonder what I’ll write about in this blog. Sometimes I sing scraps of songs (“She Came in Through the Bathroom Window” was stuck in my mind yesterday). I was thinking about Cree vocabulary and the way the university misspelled the Cree title of its strategic plan so that it translates as “Together we are raw” instead of “Together we are one with Mother Earth”–“aski” is very different from “askiy“–when I saw a slight man with a bicycle pausing to take a picture with a camera equipped with a longish lens. When I got closer, I recognized him–from his photos on Facebook–and introduced myself. “You’re Solomon Ratt,” I said. “I’m enrolled in your intermediate Cree class for next fall.” He recognized my name, probably from the class list. “Oh, yes.” We talked about the path, about the icy water under Dewdney Avenue. Then we carried on in opposite directions. Of course, I didn’t take his picture. Even if I’d had a camera around my neck, I probably wouldn’t have thought of it, or I would’ve decided not to ask for permission. I need to get over that reticence.

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I trudged north, past the loggerhead shrike nesting area, where I’ve never seen a loggerhead shrike. Maybe they can’t read the sign or don’t like the shrubs that have been planted for their benefit? I crossed the railway tracks and then the creek, and followed the path north away from the water. Eventually I reached Rochdale Boulevard. It was 2:30 in the afternoon and I hadn’t eaten anything since breakfast and I was hungry. I stopped at the first pho restaurant I saw and ordered a bowl of soup. I didn’t take any pictures of it, either. I was too busy eating. I spent an hour there, resting and drinking tea and reading a New Yorker article about H.R. McMaster on my phone. It made me think about personal integrity, and how to be true to who you are in an environment which pressures you to violate the truths you believe to be important. And that brought to mind Armando Iannucci’s excellent film The Death of Stalin, which I saw on Thursday night. Did any of the characters in that film have any personal integrity or sense of truth left? Perhaps Steve Buscemi’s Krushchev. But the others?

And those thoughts made me grateful that my work doesn’t demand that I believe in things I know to be lies.

After lunch, I turned south, walking along McCarthy Boulevard. To avoid the flooded underpass, I walked along the grass in front of the big RCMP training facility on Dewdney Avenue (another place where the City of Regina has refused to provide a sidewalk to pedestrians) and crossed the creek that way.

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Then I retraced my steps on the path along the creek. I was pretty tired–a 26-kilometre walk is a tough way to begin–and my feet hurt. But I made it home. And tomorrow, perhaps, I’ll go for another walk.

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Another Training Walk

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We leave today for Swift Current and the long walk to Battleford. Yesterday I had one last chance to walk with everything I’ll be carrying in my pack, and I took it.

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I had to visit the credit union, so I took a slightly different route from Sunday, and I walked the loop counterclockwise instead of clockwise. That meant I got to walk past the house in our neighbourhood where sunflowers seed themselves in the cracks of the sidewalk every year. Those sunflowers are one of my favourite things about this city.

On a gravelled front yard, a merlin was eviscerating a headless pigeon. He flew to the neighbour’s front porch and glared at me. “It’s okay, buddy,” I told him. “I don’t want your breakfast, and frankly I support the good work you’re doing, keeping the pigeon population down.”

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I walked north on Albert Street. After a while I turned west. I passed someone’s plastic raincoat, somehow caught high in an elm tree. I started to feel hungry, so I stopped at a convenience store and bought a little bag of peanuts. I thought about my current writing project and wondered what the Swift Current to Battleford Trail Walk is going to be like. Eventually I found myself on Rochdale Boulevard, where I ate lunch.

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After lunch, I headed back south. The clouds and occasional breeze promised some long-needed rain, but none fell while I was walking. I surprised three men resting in the shade of a sign announcing the project they were supposed to be working on. I saw joggers and cyclists and people walking their dogs, as usual. At one point a peloton of four bike cops on what must’ve been a training ride passed me.

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After six hours and 25 kilometres, I was home. A few weeks ago, a friend told me I must be very fit, what with all the walking I do. “Not really,” I replied, thinking about all the things I can’t do, like haul myself into the gym in the winter. But it looks like I might be fit enough for the walk that begins tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

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30 Degree Training Walk

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When you’re on a long walk, you take what comes. If it’s hot, you walk. If it’s cold, you walk. If it’s raining, you walk. There are alternatives–taking a day off, although there’s no guarantee the following day’s weather will be any different, or catching a lift or taking a bus, something that’s hard to do in today’s Saskatchewan–but neither of those appeals to me. I want to walk every step of the Swift Current to Battleford Trail Walk, whatever it costs.

We leave next week for that walk. It’s August, so it’s going to be hot. And we’re in a drought, so there probably won’t be any cooling rain. So today, we walked 24 kilometres in 30 degree heat, to see if we’re ready for what’s coming. I carried the pack I intend to carry. It was only half full–a tent, sleeping bag and pad, after-walk sandals, a reserve supply of Milk Bones, my iPad, and other odds and ends–but I’m not quite ready to walk in the heat with a full pack. You see, I just got back from ten days in a playwriting workshop at the Sage Hill Writing Experience. It was fantastic, and the manuscript I’m working on is much improved, thanks to the workshop facilitator, two-time Governor General’s Award winner Catherine Banks, and her clear thinking and incisive and insightful comments, delivered with kindness and gentleness. I can’t say enough good things about Catherine, or about Sage Hill. Still, sitting and writing and eating cookies hasn’t exactly prepared me for the walk. I’m behind in my training and I have to catch up. And I haven’t been walking in the heat. Something drastic needed to be done.

So this morning, we set out for Rochdale Boulevard’s infamous pho joints. We’d be there by lunch, we thought, and we’d be back before the worst of the day’s heat. We were wrong about that.

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I’ve walked this route many times, on the footpath along Wascana Creek until that footpath ends, and then on sidewalks and desire paths as far as the strip of restaurants on Rochdale Boulevard in the city’s northwest. You’d think there were no surprises left. But there were. We walked past a gaggle of geese that seemed to be mourning one of their own, a bird in convulsions after some terrible accident. We watched for a while, until we realized that the goose was merely cleaning its feathers. Later we surprised a pod of pelicans resting in the shade of a footbridge over Wascana Creek. They came splashing out from their hiding place, dipping their beaks into the creek in unison, a behaviour neither of us had ever seen before.

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Inspired by my Sage Hill colleague Kate Sutherland‘s wonderful photographs of paths and roads around Lumsden, where the writers’ retreat was held, I took lots of photos of the paths we walked. I always do that, anyway, but Kate’s photographs made me think there might be something of aesthetic value in those images. Of course, I could be wrong about that.

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At Sage Hill, Catherine led us in a guided timed-writing exercise every morning, which tried to get us to engage senses other than vision in our writing. As I walked, I thought about Catherine and the sounds and smells I was experiencing: birdsong, the wind, the sweet scent of yellow sweet clover and thistles, the occasional hint of the creek’s fetid stink. It’s good practice to engage the senses while you walk, and Catherine’s exercise reminded me of that.

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We ate lunch at a Vietnamese restaurant and then headed back south, towards home. There were few walkers or cyclists braving the afternoon heat, compared to the morning, when we chatted with several people walking their dogs. One woman asked what I was training for and was surprised by my answer. But after lunch, the sidewalks and paths were mostly deserted. Everyone with any sense was somewhere cool.

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The big concern you face when you walk on a hot day is heat exhaustion. We were five or six kilometres from home when I saw Christine begin to flag. More water, more electrolytes. Pour some water on your wrist, on the inside of your elbow. Take a rest in a shady place, if you can find one. Take some ibuprofen. She recovered, and then it was my turn to suffer. I’m not used to walking with a large pack–hell, I’m not really used to walking at all, not after Sage Hill, where my longest walk was a four-kilometre stroll along the Saw Whet Trail–and the heat and the weight I was carrying really hit me with just a kilometre left to walk. But a kilometre? You can stagger that far without too much trouble, and I did. When I got home, though, I took off my boots and had a nap. When I woke up, Christine was sleeping. My legs are a little stiff, but I’ll be fine tomorrow.

It’s the heat, I think, that sapped our strength, rather than the distance. And it’s that same heat we’ll be facing as we walk from Swift Current to Battleford. But we knew it would be hot in August when we signed up. I hope we get used to it, quickly. If we don’t, the walk won’t be a lot of fun, will it?

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