Helen Billinghurst and Phil Smith (writing as Crab and Bee), The Pattern: A Fictioning

I’ve been meaning to read this book since it appeared two years ago. One sign of that desire is the fact that I’ve ended up with two copies (e-mail me your address if you’d like the spare). Nevertheless, what with school and work I haven’t found the opportunity—until now, when I find myself in a strange lull between drafting and revising, waiting for feedback. So here I go. My reading will focus on the accounts of the walks Billinghurst and Smith made, along with the manifestoes and theoretical ruminations the text contains, and I’m going to skip over the games they propose for humans in the landscape; others might do the reverse, playing those games and ignoring the walks. I’m also going to skim through the poems and definitions of mythological figures, which some readers might wish to make their focus. To each their own. There’s a lot going on in this book, and different readers will want to take different things from it.

The Pattern begins with a page entitled “Ways To Read This Book,” where the text is described as “a handbook for walking, art making and using a map that has been left for us in the landscape” (v). It is, Billinghurst and Smith continue, an “invitation to make a playful pilgrimage that is attentive to both new and ancient special places, webbed together around a tattoo that is in the earth and in the mind” (v). Readers are invited to use the book the way they want to, by solving its mystery, borrowing tactics from it, or drilling it for ideas. See? I can, on this reading, make the walks the centre of my attention if I want to do that. And, while The Pattern “describes a model for art making,” that was not its authors’ intention: “Instead, the model emerged from our ‘hyper-sensitized’ walking in marginal and disregarded spaces and it has become a kind of ‘web walking’” (v). The model it proposes developed through poetry readings and performances, by inviting people to take the authors on walks, in workshops and ann art exhibition. “The Pattern is then the story of the places we found as we spun those threads wider,” they write (v). They also note that the book is “a fictioning” in which they “adopted narratives and characters to find things out” (v). The introduction ends with an invitation for readers to join their threads to the book’s web.

The Pattern is a collection of fragments, written by Billinghurst and Smith under multiple pseudonyms: Smoke and Mirrors, Cloak and Daggers, Crab and Bee. Using pseudonyms is one of the consistent elements of Smith’s mythogeography practice. Part One, “The Edges,” begins with an epigraph: “It is when we do not ‘know our place’ that we best discover who we are not and who we are to become” (1). The text begins with a walk in a labyrinth in the Scilly Isles; the idea of the labyrinth quickly becomes a motif, as the authors consider the “labyrinthine geography” of their city, Plymouth, in the context of Greek myths involving labyrinths (1). “Winding and unwinding became part of our methodology of enchantment,” they write, describing how that process became part of their art practice (1). 

After announcing this theme, the text turns to another walk, made with Tony Whitehead (with whom Smith and John Schott wrote the 2019 book Guidebook for an Armchair Pilgrimage), in Southway, a suburb in northwest Plymouth. “We wanted to test for a labyrinth in the least mythical of circumstances,” Billinghurst and Smith write (2). In the rain, they discover a ruined Tudor farmhouse among trees, a quarry, a wasteland “where acres of woodland had been felled and roots dug up and piled high like bodies on a battlefield” and where “old cars rotted into ferns” (3). On the other side of a stream, the trio goes “on a deeper quest, begun not by imitating ancient or esoteric rituals, but turning off an anonymous residential street to follow a concrete path” (3). That night, Billinghurst wrote a poem about the walk that surprised and frightened her, as if it had written itself. “[T]his was the first time, for us together, that the atmospheres or forces or whatever they are showed us that they had as much agency as we did and that, whatever we thought about the matter, they might have their own ideas about what needed to happen” (4).

The next section of the text thinks about a game the authors play, in which they imagine themselves to be wolves. That game seems to be central to their practice because of its sensuality and “raw commonality” (5). “Hence our willingness to abandon principles, to never say never, in order to undo closures and open up ways of cornering and sidestepping,” they write. “At a cost we blazed trails, tying red threads to the imagined hunting tracks of missing wolves. Whatever the cost, the wolves must return” (5). That description shifts to British political and intellectual history, particularly “the new royal materialism of Isaac Newton and his successors,” which “could not cope with things that can only be known by their consequences” (5). Red, the colour of the monarchy, persists in mail boxes, telephone booths, buses. For Billinghurst and Smith, those objects, especially mail boxes, “are red magical objects; wayside shrines to connectivity” that are not unlike holy wells, since “they are the visible springheads of invisible currents of penned paper, postcards, packages and parcels” (7). Around the fringes of Plymouth, they took over a variety of holes and boxes “as an alternative postal network; as a way of flagging up the magic of the postal system we already have” (7). 

That anecdote leads to a story about a mail coach near Plymouth being attacked by a lion in 1816. Where the lion would have come from is not clear. That story leads to an account of a walk about imagined or remembered predators—wolves again, this time—in which a company named Wolf Minerals is mining wolfram for light bulbs. The walk begins in a junkyard, continues through a wooded valley filled with abandoned houses, where they hang red threads (their motif, the labyrinth) around objects as a performance. Then they arrive at the huge open-pit mine, where they perform rites for the missing (extirpated) wolves. They come to consider those rites a pact with the absent wolves. They make the same walk the next day, this time with a Brazilian theatre performer and PhD student, performing similar rites, mending the woodland, which has been “defiled by yellow and black signs,” with red thread (12).

“The terrible irony of the destruction by tungsten mining of so much terrain at Plymouth’s Drakelands and Merdon by Wolf Minerals,” the authors explain, “is that this wounded land is part of the moor where some of the last wild wolves in England were killed. This irony is revealing; for humans can only subdue the wolf by destroying their shared world” (13). Destroying such essential predators “is catastrophic for the planet” (13). However, by “re-loving the wolves, by respecting and re-sharing our roles as top predator with them, in a landscape managed by predators rather than gamekeepers and the managers of ‘shoots,’ more general reparations and re-wilding can begin” (13).

Another walk on a different moor, this one marked by apparently abandoned clay pits, follows. They discover various colourful objects and a sheep’s skeleton, which they collect, running red and white thread through the vertebrae and swinging the bones beetween them. “We leave the sheep bones and the threads strung on the barbed wire fence; a warning to the mining corporation about the consequences of their depredations,” they write (16). They walk until they can see the tungsten mine in the distance: “The landscape has been royally trashed here” (16). They discover a hole, covered by a board, in which a green frog is sitting. “We have opened the book of the hill,” they write (17). They call their game with the thread and the bones “Crow” and describe it as a “‘horizontal maypole’” (21). During their walks on the Scillies, they looked for the village of Maypole but almost missed it—but for their game with the bones and thread, which (they realized) had taken place on the village green in “a kind of bone-dowsing” (21). That game leads to another: writing poems that curse the powerful.

Next, Billinghurst and Smith describe the book’s cast of characters, its “bestiary,” taken from various sources, which represent earth gods, “Chthonics,” “the gods-we-need, the snakes and worms that are our guides to the forest-beneath-the-forest, the dark place of rhizomes and fungi and white strings where chemical messages are shared from bushes to trees and from trees to bushes; the cat’s cradle of the underground” (25). Another labyrinth, then, defined by gravity, “the attraction of all things for all things” (25). 

The next page presents a description of a barrier that is actually a doorway, installed by locals to protect meadows from being quarried. That gate-like barrier becomes a symbol: “Opening the gate one way, things can come through the other way” (27). Those things are unpredictable, their process open-ended. No one knows in what form they might return. More walks follow: this stime to forts that ring Plymouth, where “‘bomb proof’ earth coverings were now mutating into novel ecologies,” including mature trees and shrubs in which birds nest (30). “Vaulted stone military structures were starting to look like the temples of oracles,” they write, providing a tangible example of unpredictable, open-ended processes (30). During another walk at Efford Fort, a doorway, “a chance arrangement of three slim tree trunks that framed the sun,” led to a strange experience, a shift in vision, for Billinghurst (31). They wondered if it was a sign that something terrible had taken place there, or whether they were imposing that interpretation on the place: “Was there the residue of something bad at Efford, or some residue in us?” (32). During a performance at another fort—this one “a melancholy heritage site” (33)—they meet a local worthy they dub the “Woodland Dame,” who is impervious to the sadness they sense in that place. “Strange things happen, strange feelings take over” (34), they continue, including more poems, illness, surprises happening on walks through Plymouth’s suburbs. They walk through a forest joined by a long thread. They become attuned to the world under the ground—trees, fungi, microbes—“as much as the surfaces of places” (37). 

Next, the book tells the story of Alfred Watkins, who came up with the idea of ley lines, “traces of ancient trackways most of which had now disappeared,” always straight (38). Smith and Billingshurst believe in the truth of this theory, because of the number of “‘privileged points” those lines connect (39). Ley lines are linked to Ufology, the failure of which as an explanatory paradigm, they write, “is a mark of the inadequacy of a wider culture, both in its mainstream and alternative forms, that is still trying to measure its quantum social sstructures and phenomena with a Newtonian clockwork model” (40). I’m not sure about that. Ley lines are similar to the idea of “Thin Places,” where the veil between this world and another frays (40). “In a world of spectacle, in which everything is available through its appearance, the enigma of these ancient sites is a disruption of our smooth consumption of apparent meaning,” the authors contend. “Instead, the abject things of pseudo-research and pseudo-science suggest ways of unpicking the spectacle of self-evident significance” (40). I can’t follow Billinghurst and Smith in this argument, but as their introduction suggests, that doesn’t matter; I’ve been encouraged to take what I like from this book, and that’s what I’ll do. Indeed, the references to “scrying” in this book confused me until I gave in and looked up that word; I’m not likely to engage in oracular predictions using bodies of water any time soon, but if Billinghurst and Smith want to engage in such serious play (or playful seriousness), that’s fine.

One of those games (or performances) involves probe heads, bolts with ribbons tied to them. “By throwing a probe head onto the path ahead of you, you cause yourself to stop and let the ripples wash back, upsetting what you thought was your purpose for going on, your reason for being there in the first place, even what you thought you were doing when you threw the probe head in the first place,” they write (43). “Probe heads hurl sideways the image an artist has of their work and of the plans they have for it; instead, the work itself steps forward, quite different from what the artist thought it was,” they continue (43). The probe head “disrupts assumptions about what we really want, it can reveal desires that have no ‘what,’ it may cut up lines-of-desire and shuffle the expected order of events” (43). The authors contend that when a probe head lands, “time stops moving in just one direction towards one target”; instead, “all parts become probabilities,” and “a field unfolds for re-making wholly new understandings of what place, desire and art can be” (44).

Their walks became silent, so that they could attend to the voices of places that had started to talk back; they stopped in friendly pubs; they thought of themselves as walking fascia; they considered the tangle of birdsong around them. All of this, it seems, is part of their web walking practice: “We stretch a thread between different places and ideas. Soon it is not a single line, but a mesh or tangle of threads that wind themselves around” (46). Those tangled threads vibrate “as unseen things in unseen places give them a tug” (46). I think the webs are both literal (note the games they play with thread) but, more importantly, metaphorical. For instance, they think about hollow places underground: tunnels, chambers, caverns, nests of ants, holes in the limestone beneath their feet—phenomena that are both real and symbolic. “All the time we felt intimations of an underground all around, of the rush of subterranean rivers, of a hiddle fluid-matrix and an airy affordance in solid rock, which left its rhythms in the surfaces on which we trod,” they state (47).

But the authors are also interested in what’s above ground, too. One odd site, a stone proscenium in the garden of a “National Trust stately home,” a place they had never liked, is discovered to be the centre of “the geometry of strangulation” driven by that house, which is “an alibi, a distraction, a decoy, an excuse to destroy everything about it” (49). The lesson: “Trust your feelings about places” (49).

Next comes an account of a walk with two scientists who study microplastics; their presence sensitizes the authors to the amount of plastic litter everywhere, most of which bears the logos of transnational corporations. They walk from one water-treatment plant to another, learning about the way that sewage sludge (including microplastics) is spread on agricultural land as fertilizer. Hulks of ships line the sea front. Billinghurst recites a poem about plastic. “Has our pollution triggered the wild’s own re-wilding of itself?” they ask (52). 

Another walk, another suburb on the edge of Plymouth. A creek, a barbed-wire fence, a power pylon. They lie on the edge of the water, sinking into the “beach” beside it (53). “We are falling through roots, loam, pebbles, cold soils, spores, damp fungal layers, a mesh of plant-pedicles, hidden rivulets, latent vapours, compost, the waste of centuries, worms, rhizomes, tubers, plastic bags, beds of grit and soot,” they write (54). They are, in their imaginations, becoming one with the land, in all of its damaged splendour. 

The pair set out “to find a remote example of an ark on Tamerton Creek,” but discover that it is just another “rusting hulk” (55). “There will be no biblical floating away from climate emergency and species extinction,” they tell us. “The fuels don’t work, the invasion of plastic is at the cellular level. No ark can escape either problem. Instead of floating off, our eco-sensual sinking-in is the better, only, way to go. Not up or away, but down and within” (56). The apocalyptic vision here doesn’t surprise me; in the face of runaway ecological catastrophe, hope becomes irrational. By imagining their bodies “stepping forward to fall apart,” by imaging their own “eco-sensual composting,” they are imagining their deaths (56). And perhaps the deaths of all of us.

The next walk the book relates took place in one of Cardiff’s eastern suburbs, where they tied red thread onto twigs and discovered plastic garbage floating in what a sign described as “a ‘nature pond’” (61). An example of “short-termism”: “Little gestures, concessions to wildlife, abandoned and forgotten as soon as installed” (61). Such “short-termism” includes abandoned public art next to the remains of a fire, and “the rotting wooden posts of an other processional route over a subterranean sewage swamp linking two housing estates” (62). The human inhabitants of these estates are confused and confusing, odd. The following day, on another walk, they realize that Cardiff Bay has become “a captive lake, a fake sea,” and they use clay “to fashion models for new sensory organs that we might use to re-access the treasure and the treasured in this reconstructed space” (63). What is present is interesting to Billinghurst and Smith, but I think their hearts are in these wild, utopian gestures, these artistic investigations of impossibility. The mud of Cardiff Bay becomes “a metaphor for the way of working that we adopted during the Labyrinth project; a spinning out and holding up of actions between artists and artforms” (65).

The authors ask why they would risk “being dismissed out of hand” by “talking about myths and legends all the time” (81). I’m not surprised by that interest; after all, Smith’s version of psychogeography is called “mythogeography.” In any case, they see evidence of mythical stories everywhere: in advertising and corporate logos, for instance. “In other words, myths and their symbols are so much of a part of the hypermodern world that we seem largely desensitized to them,” they suggest (81). Only Greek myths, though; the foundational stories of other cultures get little attention. In any case, “we chose our own myths and characters and symbols,” they continue, “in order to re-sensitize ourselves to what is going on around us” (81). 

Threads, they suggest, are “‘lines of flight’” to Gilles Deleuze and Félix Guattari, but they allow for travel in both directions, enabling an increase or decrease in intensity (82). “The thread is the first step to web-walking; walking connected to multitudes of others,” they continue (82). The web is one pattern that emerged in their walking project. Another was “the green ‘poison ponds,’ glowing with algae and pond weed,” the mud of Cardiff Bay and into which the hulks of Plymouth were rotting—the apparently abandoned, polluted water (83). “These are all variations of a green lake of desirousness without the thread of desire,” they write. “An id machine generator of desires without objects, a green, green id machine; pure subject and presocialised” (84). Desire, they continue, “does not always want or need an object,” and the “most viable human id machines are fecund places of desire without obsession or jealousy” (84).

As a performance, they told the story of the mythical Albina, founder of Albion, on Teats Hill to anyone who passed by. Some listened; others told their own mythic tales; children made a sculpture of Albina from rock and seaweed. “A kind of model had been at work in us; to find the myth of a place, and begin from there . . . letting the story do most of the work, make most of the decisions, draw most of the attention,” they write. “So: find your place, uncover its story, gather the materials and invite everyone else to make the body” (88). For them, the Teats Hill project was a success, a way to put a story into a community. They used found materials—rocks, seaweed, rusted rivets and smoothed glass fragments—to tell that story. “All around the site we planted evidence of red lines of desire, of blood flow, red hunting lines and then white lines suggesting other bonier, milkier and more skeletal connections,” they recall (91). “Without forcing anything on anybody, we were able to place a diverse story of the origins of Albion (England) into a community that is always being told that nothing important or good ever happens there, and who often felt as if that were the truth,” they continue (91). The five days on that beach changed the myth and the performers, pushing them to rethink their understanding of shape-shifting, from something liquid to something more geological and “unharmonic” (91).

Next is another walk along “an abject way out of the city, under the Expressway” (91). They saw a broken toby jug, a man who resembled the figure of John Barleycorn, and twenty deer. Then they discover the corpse of a deer somehow fastened to a metal fence surrounding an industrial estate: “A deer/fence hybrid” (92).

The authors find themselves working at night, “almost physically allergic to solar things,” which they interpret through alchemy as part of a processof transformation (93). “In our case it was the precipitation out of our ‘work’ of what was hidden, even to us as we were making it,” they write (94). They are also working together, rather than separately, counter to the contemporary “ideology of separation . . . that renders communities and societies incapable of responding to those things that challenge or invite them collectively” (94). “The practice of webbing subjectivities tells a different story,” they argue. “Working intensely and closely with others, with openness and willingness to explore and talk in detail (often accompanied by coincidences and happy accidents) can work and talk new subjectivities into being” (94-95). The “Plymouth Labyrinth” project is an example of this: even though it was “driven by invitations to be subjective, intuitive, dream-based, eccentric,” “its processes were always convivial, and at times the art making was collective and ensemble” (95). “Such processes do not reduce a subjectivity, but connect its eccentricities to those of others, webbing and weaving feelings and shared associations and ideas that reach a critical mass—ecologies of subjectivity—as a haecceity” (95). I’ve never had that experience, partly because I’ve never encountered a working partner with whom I could undertake such a project, and my most recent work was of necessity solo (the pandemic, the difficulty of the walking). In any case, Billinghurst and Smith contend that working together in this way causes the relationships between people to “slip into the magical mode,” to bring in mythical creatures and the natural world (95). “What a sociologist might see as a problem—the idea that amoral forces can produce haecceities indifferent to social factors—is the idea here,” and the practitioners are freed from the restrictions “of individuality and individualism” (95).

Next is a description of the Plymouth Labyrinth art exhibition: drawings connected with red thread, paintings that “are the closest we come to alchemy” (97). The poems included in the show are like the paintings, containing “gaps across which their sense must leap” (98). That description ends the book’s first part.

Part Two, “The Pilgrimages,” begins with the authors’ attraction “to a certain kind of shaping in the ground,” not unlike amphitheatres, although not connected to human performance (103). Those landforms—I think they are natural, rather than the work of humans—may have functioned as “ritual landscapes,” as places to see the sky (103). They found such a place near the Icknield Way, and they lay down in it. This event, it seems happened on one of their pilgrimages, during which they tried to avoid “heritage paths, with official signs,” and to follow other routes instead (103). Their walk on the Scilly Isles was another such pilgrimage, during which they found another natural amphitheatre, the kind of site that makes “a space for Erewhon”: “A time out of time, a place out of space” (104). While they didn’t make that space, they did activate it by “walking first with a red thread for life and desire,” asking their fellow walkers “to feel the circulation of the blood in their bodies,” and then adding “a white thread for bone and death, asking the walkers to feel their skeletons holding them together” (104). “Opening the gate to the Erewhon on St. Mary’s was the first time we had worked to open these things up for others; first heating things up for them, then cooling them down” (104). On another group walk, they asked their walking companions “to concentrate on their own beating hearts and circulatory systems as they carry a red wollen thread for vitality; and then to focus on their skeletons as they carry a white woolen thread for change” (107). “The participants walk in single file between the two lengths of thread, between the two colours, between the two ideas,” they state (107). 

Next, the authors describe “body dowsing,” trying to find a lost holy well by feeling the pull of the water with their bodies (108). They were, they say, successful. “Imaginations, intimations and intuitions are powerful things,” they writes, “but sometimes the sensory organ of the whole body trumps them all” (109). I’m not sure if that well is/was on the Scilly Isles, but they continue with a story about walking on the beach at the Old Town there and thinking about Prime Minister Harold Wilson, who is buried nearby, and recent British history, which suggests, to them, the looming threat of authoritarianism. 

Next is a text by an alias, Cloak & Daggers, that explains “why web walkers skulk” (115). It is a how-to-skulk manual, a how-to-web-walk treatise: not just how to do it, but also why. It presents a combination of theory and practice. There is a shift here from a concern with the spectacle to one with “the assemblage,” which can (perhaps) be resisted by skulking, by a “dissidence-of-one that can preserve and nourish an inner self; an inner working that the dissident-of-one refrains from sharing either publicly or intimately, avoiding even the most sensitive and sympathetic arms of the assemblage, without apparently doing anything to protect themselves” (116). Such skulking ought to take place “in ‘unimportant’ places,” where it’s typically assumed that nothing important ever happens (116). Skulking isn’t a game, but rather it is “a down-to-earth way to live as human beings, resisting a twisted human society in which some humans exploit other humans and exterminate the unhuman. It is a way to commit tiny treasons while keeping ourselves safe” (116). It is not a withdrawal from the world, but a plunging into its ignored edges, and despite the need for working collectively which they previously argued for, skulking involves a refusal to share, a necessary being apart from others, even if a small group of friends skulks together. 

Billinghurst and Smith advise their readers to put together their own “pantheons, lexicons and bestiaries: stories, experiences, local legends, feelings, intuitions, superstitions, mental maps, insider knowledge,” and cherished nursery rhymes (119). That is world building, practiced by the “pseudo-science and wishful archaeology” of (for instance) the author of the ley lines theory, who was one of the “artists and poets of world-building arts” (119). Anyone motivated by such “non-systems” can “break the bad spell of capitalism” (119). How that happens, though, isn’t quite clear. I suppose the book itself is presenting a belief in “non-systems” as a form of resistance. Art and intuition are linked forms of resistance. “These are sensitive signals passed up and down the threads; it is how the spider, sitting on one thread, knows where you are on the web,” they continue (121).

“Walking for ‘Plymouth Labyrinth,’ it was plain for us to see that despite all the city’s concrete culverts and river-diversions, drained marshes, dried river beds in parks in the centre of the city, water-management and the profusion of manhole covers and balancing ponds on the estates, the streams were still powers in the city,” Billinghurst and Smith write (126). They came to think of the city as an archipelago rather than a continuous landmass, imagining it as a collection of islands, some quite isolated. “When we found sadness in the city, it was often associated with isolation,” they continue (127). Water became, for them, a symbol of connection and communication, often hidden or buried, but which could return. 

Now the setting shifts to Dorset, where the authors are “struggling to find a way in”: “even turning back to re-visit a portal to hell got us nowhere” (129). They get lost in the neglected landscape. Finally they find a stream and a path which appear “prehistoric” (129). The stream drops into a green ravine, while the path continues along the edge and into a village. “For a day and a half we had been walking this part of Dorset,” they write, “and in a moment we had ducked in and were deep in its underland” (130). 

That experience somehow, mysteriously, healed their tired, injured bodies. “One of the more intimate lessons learned from exploring the labyrinth by the deployments of playfulness and myth together, is that privileged points of pleasure can be redistributed across different parts of a hyper-sensitized walker,” they write. “Walking in the city in refrains rather than repetitions is not simply to put your body in the city, but to put the city (and other terrains) in your body, to flatten the points of your obsessions and roll yourself out as a sensitive diagram overlaying you-terrain and terrain-you” (131). The figures in their mythological bestiary played a part in this phenomenon, they argue, by “tripping strong emotional responses that jumble wariness, attraction, awe, longing and so on, into unsettling mixtures that enter the blood stream” (131-32). All of this is contrary to the ideology of husbandry, in which humans attempt to control the movement of nature.

Here Billinghurst and Smith return to Ufology, which “exemplifies the contemporary cultural failure to explain phenomena in their multiplicity” (133). The mistake that ufologists make is their attempt to make things into a system, to follow the example of “enlightenment science” (134). The study of “the sited uncanny” is another example; it fails because its practitioners sought “academic, empirical respectability for their speculative practices” by subjecting their work to the rules of positivism, by trying to become a conventional discipline (134): “However, a reader can web walk these literatures as something quite different: works of poem-analysis, phenomenological archaeology, adept intuition, pattern recognition, thoughtful wishing, and the imaginary narrating of forces that have never yet existed, or been proved to, but surely ought to. . .” (135). I’m not sure what the point of investigating such consciously confabulated forces might be—why bother with what “ought to” exist, when what actually does exist is more interesting, to my mind?

When they are out walking, Billinghurst and Smith witness the evidence of a war on the ecology, an ongoing destruction of flora and fauna. That leads to the idea of “Sexy Theory,” the “opposite of transcendent thought” which sits in the intellect: a way of thinking that is “thinking-through-the-body,” that happens through embodied acts (136). “Sexy Theory is not about valuing one idea over another,” they write. “It is a way of experiencing theories as erotic and interested in our bodies. For, just as the forest benefits from people attending to it, so theories gain by our attracting to them and we by their attraction to us” (136).

Next is a discussion of “useful randomness,” of data that refuses to be “sensibly, empirically or academically organized that gives us access to an earlier plasma, to a something prior to its self-organsation,” which “usefully rearranges . . . our more rational vocabularies and lexicons” (137). They see something similar in the oracles of the ancient world: a randomness that reveals something.

Back in Dorset, after a day of rain and writing, they climb Eggardon Hill. They find a small, grass-covered mound, and Smith lies down there. When he gets up, “the field was coloured like a lunar landscape,” which reminds him of an apocalyptic dream (139). That leads to a discussion of species coming together, of “[o]rgans without a stable organism” (140), which is followed by another manifesto on “Field Thinking”: “We are against the intellectual property borders and the sedentary thinking of the lecture hall” (141). “While our walking is geographical, we walk through physical space, there is a psychic aspect, a sub-set of the physical: we have all our diagrams of this aspect, but we suspect that they are all parts of a single seething diagram,” they write (141). Field thinking, they continue, is partly about “scaling up and down. Shifting ideas across different fields, volumes, genres and phases” (141). to Plymouth, and then take the train to Bristol, where Smith grew up. They follow the path of a buried river, which is marked by the “charred remains of fires” (145). They get lost again, disoriented, unsure if they will find their overnight accommodations. They notice almost no insects in some fields, “as if the chemical damage has been so severe, and perhaps ongoing, that the recovery of species, despite the return of habitat, has not been possible” (148). Finally they see moths and butterflies in abundance. They climb to the highest point in the Mendip Hills and eat bilberries. “We are moved by what is below and what is all around,” they write (150). “[W]e have a first inkling of how our web walking is changing from the hypersensitisation to detail and textures and fragments of narrative and lore, deepening and burrowing down in awareness of the vivacity of a dar forest below and the welling up from ‘privileged points,’” they write. “We had felt all along the threads of connectivities and lines of flight and desire, and then were buoyed up when those threads knotted and tangled and formed cat’s cradles and spider’s webs; and this is the same, but different” (151).

In Cheddar, they visit a museum dedicated to “Cheddar George,” a 9,000-year-old man, the oldest complete human skeleton ever found in Britain, and he becomes the patron saint of their pilgrimages. They also visit a healing pool at White Spring, a place without liturgy or dogma in which “the least ‘fixed’ thing of all” is the water (156). Later they drink from the Red Spring across the road, where “[t]he water tastes of iron and blood” (156). The twin springs are “a geological wonder,” so different and so close together (157). 

Next, they describe a pilgrimage to Cambridge. Their first stop is a nearby village, where Billinghurst grew up, near a place where nineteenth-century archaeologists discovered the bodies of nine giant men in a quarry. They walk a path Robert Macfarlane took on a journey he relates at the beginning of his book The Old Ways: A Journey on Foot. Beneath a field where people are playing rounders, they think, lie multiple chalk figures—based on the work of “archaeologist and psychic researcher T.C. Lethbridge,” one of the purveyors of disreputable knowledge they had discussed earlier (163). They walk back to Cambridge and drive on to Ashwell Springhead, another location “where holy space is public space, where holy space is common ground” (166). Weeks later, they discover that the spring was once a site of pilgrimage for the Romans, “who came to take the waters, to petition and make offerings to the water goddess Senuna” (170). 

They continue on to Arbury Banks, to the earthworks there, which they describe as “another unconvincing ‘hill fort’” (171). The site is behind a fence and there is no information about it. They stay in Dunstable, a depressed place, where they walk into town to find dinner. They recall searching for an artist’s grave in a cemetery in Cambridge, where they experience something they describe as time looping, a kind of glitch or slip that subverts time itself. That leads to a discussion of tantra, a “plateauing of that dying” in which life and death are in tension (177). They wonder if the lines they’ve been thinking about are actually the product of the stones, circles, and tombs. In Cambridge, they walk with no purpose to a forest called Nine Wells. “Our tattooed land, marked by architecture, accidental landscape and woozy stories is like a wonky gameboard,” they write. “Its grids yanked out of ‘true’ by the gravitational pulls of attractive characters and the tugs of amoral forces on its line and rungs” (179). They propose “a pilgrimage of the Pattern which eschews the trappings of aspirant-religions or ambitious systems of any kind, and assumes a more nomadic approach, going place by place, feeling by feeling, making things up as you go along,” letting the spaces guide the pilgrims “rather than what we believe of them” (179). In a motel filled with truckers, they spend the evening writing and drawing.

“Removing humans from the green environment creates a flood, accelerates an uninhibited rush to destruction”—destruction caused by corporations and other abstract entities, I’m assuming. “Human boulders in the flow create the possibilities for rapids, for the soaking up and variegation of the rush, turning energy into meanings and meaningful variations of velocity and volume,” they continue (183). They recall a climb in Ebbor Gorge, in Somerset, where they wondered if they would have the same fate as the schoolgirls in the film Picnic at Hanging Rock.

Now, they discuss the tentacular as a force that cannot be managed, “Tentacularity is never wholly explicit; there are always blind streams which emerge without expressing by quite what hollows they have arrived,” they write. Then they return to their pilgrimage with a visit to a cave near Royston, where they bought a guide to “the alchemical agencies at work in the Red and White Springs at Glastonbury (187). They consider the importance of those colours in their work. During their walks, “our red and white threads became like two serpentine routes, weaving around each other, each a slippery scaffolding for the other, while together raising the ghost of a third and invisible thread” (188). 

Another pilgrimage, this one to the Wandlebury Ring, the site of Lethbridge’s excavation and “his problematic proposal for a jumble of supposedly ancient chalk images” (189). They acknowledge that it’s easy to laugh at Lethbridge’s method, but they “prefer to think of him as an intuitive myth-scientist, an artist, a skillful seer able to crochet-hook a vanished past into modernity, rendering it visible—and useful—for others” (189-90). They visit (on foot or by car? I can’t tell) the White Horse of Uffington, and have a picnic while watching volunteers refurbishing the chalk drawing. On their descent down the hill, they “slip through time,” seeing a white horse, a “bright flash, glint of metal,” and “red blood” soaking into the white chalk: “A strange, beautiful spectacle” (192). A “Red Kite” hovering overhead becomes a military helicopter (192). The following day, they visit Avebury Circle (they are clearly travelling by car now), where charms and trinkets hang from the branches of beech trees.

“There is, it seems, a web of surface patterns,” they write, which bring together “ancient chalk figures and esoteric grafitti with chance hill contours, motorway networks, zodiacal chartings and the Jungian imaginings of the likes of T. C. Lethbridge” (193). That web “tattoos the entire country” in a tangible pattern (193). “These are the veins and arteries to which our wanders on the outskirts of Plymouth have brought us, driven by the things we found there, the agents of connection,” they continue. “We did not set out to trace a pattern; instead it has come to us by our following an unfolding; first with threads, then knots and tangles and webs, and then the under-forest of rhizomes and mycelium, and myths and privileged points, and, fainally, brought us to The Pattern” (193). The tattoo on the surface is dense and meaningful, and “The Pattern is a hybrid; partly of affordant shapings in the landscape—mounds, inclines and bowls—and partly of subjective marings and tellings; a legend of the hill, a tower built on its summit” (193). They see parallels between The Pattern and Billinghurst’s drawings, and the line of their walks “is the line of implicit and explicit memory, mirrored in the survivals and disappearances of the palimpsests of old ritual layouts heaped one on top of another, a tattooing not only extensive, but in places deep and thick” (196). Other writers and artists have discovered “the same nodes and threads” (196). They constitute “the great land art,” which is “always walkable, processional, democratic; complementary to a train of thought that connects immediate personal associations to complex, buried, promiscuous shared memories and boxes of bones” (196-97).

Now they turn to their final walk for the book, on the edge of Plymouth. They climb to the top of a medieval motte and a hill near a quarry where the body of a sheep rots. “There is something very wrong here,” they write. “The privileged point is poisoned” (198). After a stop in a nearby pub, they carry on towards home. “We are travelling in different dimensions,” they continue. “part of us is following the ghost of the old creek, slipping spectrally by as the heart of the town becomes a port again; as unplanned cargoes arrive; as a ghostly schooner kisses the quayside, unmanned. Another part is still in those crimson armchairs, upholstered mechanisms for travelling in time and space” (199). “We started these journeys with an idea about space and set out to find a labyrinth; and now we are beginning something new with an idea about time and its loops, threading us back and forward, from future inundation to former idealism and back to the present where the past is curled snug in front of the glowing grate in the London Inn, resolutely provincial and promiscuously connected,” they conclude (199). But it’s not a conclusion, as the last words unequivocally state: “There is no conclusion . . .” (199).

So, what do I make of this book? I’m not sure. The walking practice it describes is very different from my own, but I already knew that would be the case, before I opened it. I find myself unable to fictionalize or mythologize, especially here, where the indigenous myths—the myths of Indigenous peoples—are not stories I feel qualified to tell, or borrow from, or play with. There is little playful here, in Saskatchewan—indeed, from the account Billinghurst and Smith provide here, there is little playful in England, too. The tattoo on the surface of this land is made of grid roads and road allowances, which overlay older trails, rivers, creeks, anything that meanders or deviates from the strict north-south or east-west lines on the map. I think that the practice outlined in The Pattern might fit the United Kingdom, but I’m not sure it would work here, in this very different place. In any case, Smith’s writing and his walking practices are always interesting, always worth thinking about and trying to learn from.

Works Cited

Billinghurst, Helen, and Phil Smith. The Pattern: A Fictioning, Triarchy Press, 2020.

Macfarlane, Robert. The Old Ways: A Journey on Foot, Penguin, 2012.

Schott, John, Phil Smith, and Tony Whitehead. Guidebook for an Armchair Pilgrimage, Triarchy Press, 2019.

Towards Re-Enchantment: Place and Its Meanings, eds. Gareth Evans and Di Robson

Towards Re-Enchantment: Place and Its Meanings is an important publication of writing about place in Britain, according to David Cooper and Rachel Lichtenstein, who contend that the book creates a literary map of England, Scotland, and Wales, and is part of the shift from thinking about space to thinking about place in the UK (1-2). I got interested in opening the copy of Towards Re-Enchantment I bought and forgot about a year ago because of the essay Cooper and Lichtenstein posted on the website of Manchester Metropolitan University’s Centre for Place Writing, and since the book contains no editors’ introduction, I have appropriated that essay as a kind of introduction to the book. Cooper and Lichtenstein suggest that the reasons for the return to place after the previous creative and critical interest in questions of space “are complicatedly various,” including “the anxiety regarding the meaning of place within the context of late-capitalist globalisation to the apocalyptic fear generated by the climate emergency,” and they argue that place writing, as demonstrated by Towards Re-Enchantment, “is characterised by an attentiveness to the textural particularities of specific sites: an attentiveness that is often generated through the embodied experience of walking-through-place” (1-2). When I read those words, I realized that the manuscript I’ve been working on for the past two years fits within this category better than any other I’ve come across, and that I really ought to write another chapter in the exegisis I’ve prepared, one that discusses place-writing as that manuscript’s context. But I’m not going to do that, because that exegesis is already too long. Enough is enough. I’m sure my committee members, about to be burdened with that lengthy document, would agree.

Towards Re-Enchantment begins with Robin Robertson’s “Tillydrone Motte,” a short poem that, according to the map provided by the editors, describes a hill in Seaton Park, which Google tells me is in Aberdeen. A motte is an ancient earthen mound, constructed for defence, which explains Robertson’s description of it as “my castle-keep, watchtower” (9). Robertson is not just writing about a place, but about her childhood engagement with that place, which she knew intimately, both its geographical features and the herons and cormorants in the nearby River Don. At its conclusion, the poem returns Robertson to the present, “a time when I would find / the trees unclimbable, the river too fast to ford,” and that the mound is a “Bronze Age burial cairn,” not a motte, which ought to be called “tulach draighionn,” which means, in Gaelic, “the hill of thorns” (10). I know nothing about Robertson, but I sense affinities in that last stanza between the colonial histories of Scotland and Saskatchewan, the way that the colonizers’ language has overwritten the Indigenous languages of place and that the colonizers’ stories have overwritten the Indigenous stories of place.

Iain Sinclair’s “Water Walks” follows. It begins in familiar territory for those familiar with Sinclair’s writing: a park in London’s East End, where a Hasidic family (a man and two sons) watches the River Lea. From that beginning, Sinclair turns to a description of Springfield Park: its history, most of all, as a “dream of the good place” for urban workers on holiday (13-14). “Springfield Park was a conceptual space that was also a room without a ceiling, curtained with trees, box hedges closed around formal benches, a carpet of spongy grass,” Sinclair writes (14). He describes a century-old photograph of “Park Keepers and Constabulary” whose job was to maintain the “sham” of the park as a “pastoral idyll” (14-15). It was a “true sham” because the park was surrounded by industrial concerns that could be seen and smelled within the park (15). Sinclair is interested not just in the history of this place, though, but also in its geology and hydrology: the way that the water that falls as rain makes its way into the Lea (16).

“What is it about this place that makes it worth invading?” Sinclair asks (16). It is a “naggingly present motif” in “the clotted narrative of East London,” “a still point” which offers a “quietly eroticised pleasuring of the senses” (16-17). Here Sinclair returns to history, to a book by a local historian, Benjamin Clarke, that record his walks through the area, presenting “accidental evidence” that justifies “his own obsession with the magic of place” (17). From Clarke’s pedestrian excursions, Sinclair turns to his own, the product of a life lived in the area. He suggests that the trick to a rewarding walk is “to delete internal projections and fantasies, mental trailers that act as a nuisance filter between world and self, and to empty that space until landscape flowed through, freely and without editorial interference” (18). That is his method: to “become this becoming, alert not alarmed, walking just far enough for the process to work” (18). The loud café in the park, where Sinclair is surrounded by the new denizens of this place—“new cyclists, map readers, oarsmen, nature bureaucrats, legacy technicians” (18)—doesn’t completely erase other, past Springfields, such as the one where the poet John Clare was kept in an asylum. I just rediscovered Sinclair’s book about Clare and his escape from that asylum while cleaning up my work space this morning, and this essay is encouraging me to turn to that book now, despite its length.

“Making yourself ready to accept the dictation of place is the first requirement: and then the unexpected, that wished-for second consciousness, will happen,” Sinclair continues (19). In this case, that “second consciousness” is an awareness of Clare and his journey. “The effort of the thing, the dream of the walk, is exclusion, winnowing the deluge of impressions, sights, signals, sounds, to essence,” he writes (19). He takes notes, but on this occasion he has left his camera at home, “making more room for those messengers, manifestations of enchantment, to reveal themselves,” even though his notes seem to have described the more prosaic features of the park, including a solitary Muscovy duck and a pair of nesting coots (19). A broken pipe flooding the path and a section of the canal drained “for cosmetic improvement” leave him pondering the “imploded economy” and “submerged eco-system” of the area, with its stark divisions between rich and poor (20). “These incidents could be arranged to form a pattern, the armature of a narrative; or they could stand, without embellishment ,as a list, a fragment with no beginning and no end,” he notes, before describing two people in the park, a man and a woman completely unaware of each other, and the “painterly” effect of the contrast between them (20). “The drama of this non-event,” Sinclair suggests, “is an improper conclusion; more like the start of another tale. It is self-sufficient, requiring no additional commentary” (20). He then describes yet another human presence, a blind man “leashed to contradictory dogs” which remind him of two empty plinths which used to house sculptures of dogs, which have been removed in order to be repaired (20-21). When Sinclair returns home, he finds an e-mail from Rachel Lichtenstein, describing an encounter with a woman in a bookshop who told her terrible stories about a nearby mental hospital where she worked in the 1960s.

Next, Sinclair shifts to another place, Stamford Hill, and the people he sees there, including a poet named Yang Lian who settled in London after the Tiananmen massacre. Lian, according to Sinclair, is interested in place, and paarticularly in Stamford Hill (which seems to be near Springfield Park), as is his wife, Yo Yo. “It wasn’t, in truth, a conversation, but an audience with a privileged person,” Sinclair recalls (23). He recorded that audience and provides a transcript of Lian’s thoughts about the Lea Valley and the role of the poet as “an archaeologist of now” (23). Lian identifies with that valley: “Lea Valley is me. I am the Lea Valley” (24). Awareness, communicated through poetry, is the key word, according to Lian, not just for that place but for “all other matters” (24). Both the inner and external landscapes function as poetic inspiration for Lian, and the external landscape can be transformed into inner landscape. 

In the essay’s last section, Sinclair meets with one of Lian’s translators, who talks about the way that the places of East London act as inspirations for the poet, about the way that they provide opportunities for contemplative solitude. The River Lea, he continues, 

solaced Izaak Walton, Arthur Waley and, in our own time, the photographer Stephen Gill. The explanations of its power are always different. Whether it offers a willow-shaded fishing spot or edge-of-the-city grounds for wandering and cycling, the attraction lies in its accessible obscurity. The knowledge that nothing is explained or morally improving, overwhelmed by great public schemes. (26)

Sinclair concludes, “here is the place, when conditioned reflexes close down, to which my feet still carry me” (27). Like Lian, it is. part of him, I think, and he is part of it, of the water that functions as memory, repeating, erasing, and inspiring (27).

The next essay is Richard Mabey’s “On the Virtues of Dis-Enchantment,” which is about East Anglia, a place I only know about from reading W.G. Sebald’s The Rings of Saturn. East Anglia is reputed to be too flat, topographically and culturally, to be of any interest. Mabey wonders what effect landscape has on the people living in it—whether the wind and water characteristic of East Anglia excite or imprison its inhabitants. “If there isn’t such a thing as a regional character, there is a shared narrative, an ongoing conversation about ourselves,” Mabey writes (30). Those narratives accumulate to become “a communal self-portrait, a background hum that is part of the region’s ambience. Sometimes they are dramatically acted out and become literal parts of the landscape” (30). The narrative of East Anglia, he continues, “is more enthralment than fear,” both a battle against the water but also a “continuing compulsion to let it in—to the imagination and the heart” (30). He recalls the marshland sports day held by his village in the 1970s, and his late friend Roger Deaken, who “made the ultimate local odyssey by swimming across Suffolk, through off-limits parkland lakes and weedy streams and the underwater maze of fugitive channel markers in the Blythe estuary, out to where Suffolk dissolves seamlessly into the sea” (31). Indeed, the local dialect and the landscape share certain qualities, according to Mabey: both centre themselves on water. 

Here he shifts to think about the Norfolk Broads, flooded peat mines near Great Yarmouth, a fishing town, bombed during the twentieth century’s wars and bulldozed by 1960s redevelopment schemes, becoming a deepwater container port with sprawling suburbs. “But it still feels like a hurt and dislocated community, under a kind of foreign occupation,” Mabey writes (33). The Norfolk Broads themselves—400 square miles of open water and marsh—were poisoned by chemical run-off from agricultural land. “What had been an ecological paradise came close to turning into the aquatic equivalent of a run-down housing estate,” he tells us, using an odd metaphor (33-34). Now the area is a protected National Park, “one of the richest wildlife areas in lowland Britain” (34). Nevertheless, climate change may drown the freshwater Broads in seawater; they cannot be defended from the rising North Sea.

“Water adds both detail and indefiniteness to a landscape,” Mabey continues. “If East Anglia’s flatness is an illusion in the vertical dimension, it is also horizontally” (35). The fens and marshes “are all electric with subtle and shifting particularities” (35). The water “makes renewal a continuous possibility” (36). He turns to describe his house in Norfolk and its surroundings, slowly moving away from the house to its wider location. In some areas, land reclaimed for agriculture is being turned back into fens, although the change “isn’t a grand exercise in human abandonment”: “the end result should be a diverse and regenerated human landscape as well as a vast wildlife reserve, with hardy cattle grazing the wetlands, and small-scale industry based around indigenous resources like reed and willow” (38). It may be, he concludes, that East Anglia will become “a place where people go with the flow” (38).

A photo essay, “May Morn” by Jane Rendell, follows. It juxtaposes found text about an early modernist building against what appears to be apartment blocks and houses built in the 1960s. I watch British police procedurals on TV, and I’m always shocked at the ugliness and apparent flimsiness of architecture from that period. This essay, by comparing the description of that early modernist building’s disrepair with the tower blocks of (I’m guessing) London, does something odd. No one is present in the written descriptions, but many of the photographs include residents, mostly alone.

Then Rendell presents us with a text that begins with her response to video work by the artist Elina Brotherus, entitled Spring. As she watched that work, she found herself returning to memories of places: “a derelict house in the green belt where in spring we found photographs of a brave new world of modernist high-rise housing,” the home of her Welsh great aunt, an abandoned cork factory in Catalunya (50). The derelict house, which she called “Moss Green,” becomes the essay’s focus. She describes it in detail, “the arresting beauty of its slow yet gentle decay” (51), the still charming atmosphere, its slow collapse, and the items she salvaged from it, including a book entitled New Architecture of London: A Selection of Buildings since 1930, which was the source of the photographs in her essay. She tracked down most of the buildings in those photographs, discovering as she did so that many of them had already been demolished. She used an online real-estate service, primelocation.com, to look at those buildings. “Searching for modernist icons through primelocation.com has been a stark reminder of what has happened to the socialist ideals of modernism,” she writes. “Some of the modern movement’s public housing projects have become oases of cool property in the London postcodes associated with the rich” (53-54). Others, in poorer neighbourhoods, have fallen into neglect. Now, modernist architecture “is often seen as intimately tied to social deprivation and this has forced the designers of certain regeneration schemes to adopt a new architectural language: one which is not so obviously ‘modern’ and is therefore capable of suggesting optimism, community and better standards of living in a different way” (54). I found myself thinking about Regent Park in Toronto, a modernist planned community that is being demolished because, as it turned out, it didn’t work all that well.

She wonders about the person who lived in Moss Green, whether he or she was an architect, and posits the existence of two modernisms: one early, tied to the Arts and Crafts movement, and the other, “later phase of industrialisation and standardization” (55). She writes of the art of Tacita Dean and Rut Blees Luxemburg, who critique “the so-called failure of the modern project” (55). For her part, Rendell is not certain that modernism failed; instead, she writes, “I think the aspirations for social community and progress it embodies have been driven out, in England at least, by a Conservative and then a Labour government keen to promote an ideology of home-ownership” (55). A public that is mortgaged to the hilt will be afraid to dissent; houses have become investments, which is “a disaster for the left,” because by buying property one becomes “part of the propertied class and all that entails” (55). “There is no doubt that I would have remained closer to the truth of my political ideals if I had continued to rent a room, as I did in my student days,” she suggests (55). Still, she is not as “monstrous as an investor who purchases a flat in a modernist icon to leverage out an income in rent,” and she remains inspired by modernism (56).

Rendell suggests that in her image-text work, “the material decay of the photographs, as ink and paper documents, is counteracted by the aspiration of the just-completed buildings in the images” (56). She recalls returning to Moss Green, finding the house had collapsed. She remains hopeful about the future nevertheless: 

This is not a time for mouring, not a time for grieving the failure of the modernist project: such a gesture needs to be resisted. The ideals of modernism are to be cherished, not only aesthetically but also, and importantly, politically. It is, I think, precisely because an aspiration for social change remains that we are being presented, continuously, with an image of modernism as a project that has collapsed. This is the myth-making of Capitalist ideology. (57) 

Clearly I misread the photographs Rendell presented, mistaking their stains and blotches for a commentary on the architecture they represent, or perhaps viewing them through the lens of the dilapidated projects I’ve seen on television. She ends with a quotation from Frederic Jameson’s work on Walter Benjamin and nostalgia: “looking back to a past because it appears to be better than the problems of the present is not necessarily regressive, especially if it can be used to change the future” (57-58).

Ken Worpole’s “East of Eden” begins in a churchyard on the Essex coast, seeing a continuity between the church’s tower (used as a lookout point and beacon during wars) and the concrete defences from World War Two that are slowly disappearing into the sea on the nearby shingle beaches. That leads to a description of inhabited and uninhabited islands on that coast, particularly Mersea, before Worpole returns to St. Edmund’s, the church, recalling family vacations in the area in the 1950s. One recent grave is nameless, probably the body of someone drowned at sea, and Worpole thinks about cemeteries devoted to the anonymous dead. “It is difficult to imagine these near-empty landscapes, occasionally punctuated by small settlements, as humanly bearable without the solace afforded by their churches, whether as beacons in the landscape or as quiet interiors,” Worpole writes (64). That solace is mixed with the dead, since churches are the final resting-places of so many, particularly those who drowned in the North Sea. Worpole thinks about the journey from London into Essex, the industries one used to pass that no longer exist, ending at the coast, which “embodies a melange of the maritime and the industrial, the defensive and the arcadian, much of it now redundant, and gaining a disputed etymology of its own: slack nature, post-industrial wilderness, unofficial countryside, working wild, drosscape, edge condition, terrain vague” (65). Such places are hard to love, to appreciate as landscapes, and Worpole calls for a reinterpretation and revaluing of such places, “especially those that resist traditional categories of taste and approbation,” places which inspire ambivalence and uncertainty and contradiction. I like the way Worpole wanders—or rather apparently wanders—from one topic to another, following his ruminations wherever they take him.

The next section of Worpole’s essay considers the aesthetic conventions we use to judge the appeal of landscapes: the history of the representation of landscape in art; the slow shift to representing actual landscapes in paintings of Biblical stories; the shift from representations of the Crucifixion to the axis mundi, “the axis by which the human presence establishes itself in the world,” and a phenomenological interpretation of that vertical and horizontal axis, suggesting both human endeavour and place, and the representation of landscape in the contemporary world (68-69). He considers his book project 350 Miles, a collaboration with photographer Jason Orton, which represents the Essex landscape through distance, through vistas without human presence. “Documenting an absence is, after all, an important obligation for those engaged in forms of artistic representation which seek to honour those famously ‘hidden from history,’” Worpole writes (69-70). Human traces are everywhere in Essex, despite the area’s depopulation, and to photograph “this palimpsest of past lives and changing landscapes is a key part of a new aesthetic” (70). The Picturesque aesthetic tended to ignore the topography, economy, and social life of places, preferring instead a “gardenesque tradition” (72). But Essex contains elements which “are wholly a product of the modern world, including strategic areas of land reclaimed from the sea,” along with “the fortuitous creation of vast swaths of former industrial and military land now lying unusued and neglected” (72). Some of those projects were focused on social reform, symbolizing “a new world in the making,” although those modern feats of engineering, in particular, “have never been formally absorbed into the aesthetic representation of rural life and landscape” (73). Worpole notes that Tim Edensor objects to representations of rural landscapes that exclude power lines and cell towers and new buildings, exclusions that Worpole suggests are “as politically questionable as the re-writing of history, or the wilful manipulation of photographic images to misrepresent actuality” (73).

In the essay’s final section, Worpole posits that the landscapes of East Anglia have dominated recent topographical writing, and he wonders what Englishness might mean if it is defined by the topography of “low horizons and cold seas” (74). He considers the history of artists’ and writers’ colonies in Essex, suggesting that it has a certain outsider status and is not considered appropriately picturesque. “The county is seen to lack respectable heritage and legitimacy,” he states (75). He credits the work of Sebald as “crucial to the re-imagining of the region” and contends that it has reconnected East Anglia to the European narrative (75). He suggests that the “unassimilated landscapes” of Essex “need to be recorded and valued if they are not to be wilfully levelled or ‘improved’ in the name of some larger political programme” (75). Worpole considers the way that the material history of coal-mining districts has been deliberately destroyed, and argues that elsewhere, including in North America, “progress on re-imagining and bringing back into public esteem such former industrial landscapes is more advanced” (76). Some of that work is now happening in Essex, and nature reserves are being developed on what was once industrial land or military firing ranges. Yet, he concludes, little attention has been paid to integrating new housing estates into the landscape. “We are learning to find a home for the birds in these debatable lands, but not ourselves,” he writes. “It doesn’t have to be this way” (78).

Elisabeth Bletsoe’s “Votives to St. Wite,” an abstract poem about a place in Dorset that I can’t quite imagine, comes next. It’s about a churchyard, I think, but I’m not entirely certain. Perhaps if I had visited it, or seen a photograph, I might get it. Then Jay Griffiths’s “The Grave of Dafydd follows, about “the grave of that most beloved of the old poets,” in the ruins of a Cisstercian abbey near a village marked by poverty. The grave is near two ancient yew trees, supposed to be at least 1,400 years old, in the churchyard. Visitors have left gifts at the grave: “It is an untidy grave, and therefore full of life” (92). The yew tree overhead has been damaged in a fire, but it is sprouting again. Griffiths uses the tree’s own charcoal to write “Thank you, Dafydd” on a page from his notebook, and he buries it there—the only gift he can make (93). “Like any good hearth, this place seems to offer a long welcome, for it seems to ome that Dafydd would have loved people coming to sit by him and have a think,” Griffiths writes (93). He would like to sleep there. He recalls incidents from Dafydd’s life. Then, a man enters the churchyard and is startled by Griffiths’s presence, and Griffith realizes that the tree has left charcoal marks on his coat: “I’ve been written on” (94). Dafydd, I’m gathering—since I’ve never heard of him—was an earthy poet who wrote in Welsh, one of the most important writers of that language. “He was a troubadour, for sure, and a poet who sung himself into his harp, but something more,” Griffiths tells us. “He sung himself into the land, asking birds, animals and the wind to carry his messages to all his well-beloveds” (95). 

Here Griffiths shifts to a description of Wales itself, an “old land” where “the oldest stones of Europe are to be found” (96). The last wolves in Britain lived there. In spring, the season associated with Dafydd, “mid-Wales comes roaring to life”: daffodils, skylarks, blue sky (97). The dawn chorus, Griffiths writes, is “sunrise made audible”—a lovely turn of phrase (97). Wales is also a country where playing the harp has “an uninterrupted history,” and Griffiths considers that instrument and its metaphors (97). The harp takes him back to Dafydd, to oral literature, and from there, to lines and footpaths marked on the land. He compares the territoriality of farmers to that of kingfishers, and thinking of farmers slides into thinking about the differences between rural poverty and the wealth represented by second homes, which “disenchant the land, blocking the literal footpaths and the metaphoric songlines” (100). Second homes “have the tidied perfection of the grave,” compared to the life and dwelling of Dafydd’s grave (100).

The Teifi river runs near that grave, and Griffiths shifts to thinking about the various rivers of mid-Wales. He considers birds and animals and their noise, or song, which leads to another Welsh poet, Taliesin, who said he was born from a leaping salmon, and whose “poetry is fluent with a riverrun of metamorphosis” (101). The ancient, pre-Christian idea of metamorphosis takes Griffiths to Dafydd’s poetry again, where the Christian element seems tagged on, since his primary interest is pagan. Griffiths sits in the yew tree, reading Dafydd’s poetry, thinking about the link between poetry and shelter, between words (or songs) and home. He realizes that the tree has been fed by Dafydd’s body, and so he takes a pinch of earth and eats it: “Another kind of dispersal, another kind of metamorphosis of earth” (103).

Following Griffiths’s essay is Lavinia Greenlaw’s poem, “Hevenyssh,” about a place in Norfolk. It concludes with a quotation: the place lifts the speaker from her heart “as doth an hevenyssh perfit creature / that down were sent in scornynge of nature” (105). If I knew where that quotation came from, the poem would speak to me—mostly because, although I’ve never been to Norfolk, reading Mabey’s essay on that place has given me some sense of what it might be like. Perhaps poetry gives us a more intense sense of a place, but often it leaves out the details required to identify it—could that be possible?

After Greenlaw’s poem comes Robert Macfarlane’s “A Counter-Desecration Phrasebook.” A quotation from this essay is the reason I looked to find this book. The essay begins with a quotation from David Abram’s The Spell of the Sensuous as an epigraph, but the first section, about flying above the ocean near the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides, is entitled “Epilogue.” Perhaps this essay unfolds backwards? Or did the author, or editors, mean “prologue”? I’ll never know. In any case, the essay is not structured in reverse, since the first section proper, “In Which Names Are Spoken,” is identified with a Roman numeral: I. Macfarlane recognizes that the moor that makes up most of the Isle of Lewis looks like nothing, a large, flat, “apparently undifferentiated expanse” that seems to swallow all of our eyes’ “attempts at interpretation” (108). It is “MAMBA country: Miles and Miles of Bugger All” (108). Nevertheless, there is a rich language, collected in a document called Some Lewis Moorland Terms: A Peat Glossary, to describe the moorland, many of which “are remarkable for their compressive precision” (109). This is the territory Macfarlane returns to in his later book, Landmarks. “That a lexis of such scope and such exactitude has developed is testimony to the intense relationship of labour which has long existed between the inhabitants of the Western Isles and their land,” Macfarlane writes; “this is, dominantly, a use-language—its development a function of the need to name exactly that which is being done, and done to” (109). That relationship is also an aesthetic one, Macfarlane contends, given the rich metaphors it contains, and the document he is describing is “a deeply moving text—a prose poem, really-and it instantly gives the lie to any perception of the Moor as a terra nullius” (109-10). The lexis the Glossary describes is “so supplely suited to the place being described that it fits it like a skin. Precision and poetry co-exist here: the denotative and the figurative are paired as accomplices rather than antagonists” (110).

 Place names on Lewis have a similar discrimination; Macfarlane cites a book by Richard V. Cox, The Gaelic Place-Names of Carloway, Isle of Lewis: Their Structure and Significance, a work that is almost 500 pages long and lists more than 3,000 place names and toponyms identifying natural landscape features, often with an “exceptional specificity” (110). Reading Cox’s work, Macfarlane suggests, is to realize “that the Gaelic speakers of this landscape inhabit a terrain that is—to borrow a phrase from Proust—‘magnificently surcharged with names’” (111). Until the twentieth century, most of the island’s inhabitants did not use paper maps; rather, they “relied instead on memory maps, learnt on the land and carried in the skull,” maps which “were facilitated by a wealth of first-hand experience” (111). “For their uses, these place-names were part of the internalised landscape necessary for getting from location to location, and for the purpose of guiding others where they needed to go,” Macfarlane continues. “It is for this reason that so many of the toponyms incorporate what is known in psychology and design as ‘affordance’—the quality of an environment or object that allows an individual to perform an action on, to, or with it” (111). These place names are both “audaciously accurate” and “also experiential”: “They arise in part out of the practice of moving through, seeing and using a landscape. To speak out a run of these names is therefore to create a story of travel—ann act of sequential naming in which both way-finding and way-faraing are implicit” (112). How different are the place names here, which seem to have been imposed on the landscape at random. 

Macfarlane cites Keith Basso’s 1996 book Wisdom Sits In Places, “an investigation into the radical situatedness of thought in the Apache people of Western Arizona,” as an analogy. “The Western Apache understand how powerfully language constructs the human relation to place,” he writes (113). “In the Apache imagination geography and history are consubstantial,” he continues. “Placeless events are inconceivable, in that everything that happens must happen somewhere, and so history issues from geography in the same way that water issues from a spring: unpredictably but site-specifically” (113). For the Apache, as well as the Hebrideans, “language is used both to describe and to charm the land. Word as compass and as cantrip. Speech as a way literally to en-chant the land—to sing it back into being, and to sing one’s being back into it” (114). I’ve seen other references to Basso’s work, and it seems to be something I should explore.

However, the place-language of the Outer Hebrides is being lost, as the number of Gaelic speakers declines and the names of places are forgotten by a younger generation that no longer works the moorlands in the same way. Something similar is happening in English, too: “Increasingly we make do with an impoverished vocabulary for nature and landscape” (115). For urban dwellers, the countryside is becoming “a blandscape,” identified through large, generic terms (115). “It is not, really, that the natural phenomena and forms themselves are disappearing, only that there are fewer people prepared to or able to name them, and that once they go unnamed they go unseen: language deficit leads to attention-deficit,” he states (115). As the vocabulary of nature and landscape disappears, so does our knowledge of it, along with “the ethos that such a vocabulary might embody or encourage,” an ethos of understanding and imagining human relationships with more-than-human nature (115). “A basic language-literacy of nature is falling from us,” he continues, and along with that literacy, we are losing “a kind of language-magic, the power that certain words possess to enchant our imaginative relations with nature and landscape” (116).

That disenchantment is “the distinctive injury of modernity,” Macfarlane writes, citing Max Weber, a phenomenon that is “a function of the rise of rationalism, which demanded the extirpation of dissenting knowledge-kinds in favour of a single master-principle” (116-17). Disenchantment goes beyond our impulse to control nature to our emotional responses, the loss of our capacity for wonder, for being comfortable with not-knowing, for mystery. As a result, “the things around us do not talk bac to us in the ways that they should”: “As we have enhanced our power to determine nature, so we have rendered it less able to converse with us. We find it hard to imagine nature outside a use-value framework” (117). Macfarlane cites Heidegger’s essay “The Question Concerning Technology” here, something I return to in my attempts to understand this phenomenon. We now have “an inadequate and unsatisfying relationship with the natural world, and with ourselves too, beecause we have to encounter ourselves and our thoughts as mysteries before we encounter them as service providers” (117). One thing has become equivalent to any other: “The idea of fungibility has replaced the experience of particularity” (117). 

For Macfarlane, we need a language or a vocabulary that “resists and then reverses that replacement,” one that enables “the possibility of re-enchantment” which would enable the natural world to cease to be a mere thing and become something that knows we are present (118). Having a particular language about places allows us to speak clearly about them, because “it allows us to fall into the kind of intimacy with such places which might also go by the name of love or enchantment, and out of which might arise care and good sense” (118-19). Otherwise, “the separation of knowledge and nature moves us slowly towards a society in which it is increasingly unnecessary for us to be aware of where we live, beyond the housekeeping of our own private zones,” Macfarlane continues. “Once this awareness has lapsed, then landscapes beyond those precincts become much easier to manipulate for ill” (119-20). An undescribed and unregarded landscape “becomes more vulnerable to unwise use or improper action” (120).

That happened on the Isle of Lewis, where a wind farm was proposed for the moor, based on the sense that it was a desert wilderness without inherent value. To fight back, the islanders (the vast majority of whom did not support the project) “began to devise ways of re-enchanting the moor” (122). One aspect of that effort was mapping their moor-walks, “recording paths taken and events that occurred or were observed along the way” (122). Another was the creation of an archive of poems, ballads, folksongs and testimonies about the moor; another was the development of the glossary with which Macfarlane begins this essay. Islanders wrote protests to the government, one of which gave Macfarlane his title by calling for “‘a Counter-Desecration Phrasebook’” (124). In the end, the development was stopped—if only temporarily. However, Macfarlane suggests that we urgently need “a Counter-Desecration Phrasebook that would comprehend the world,” that would re-enchant “the whole earth,” that would “allow nature to talk back to us and would help us to listen” (124-25). Such an admittedly impossible phrasebook “would provide us with the necessary tools for responsible place-making” (125). Its language would be precise and metaphorical; it would enable us not only to think about nature, but also “think with it,” and even more importantly, realize “that we are thought byit” (126). “It would be alert to the ways in which cognition is site-specific, in which certain landscapes can hold certain thoughts as they hold certain species or minerals,” he writes. “It would celebrate the fact that there are natural places that present possibilities of thinking that are otherwise unavailable or elsewhere absent” (126). It would “infuse inanimate objects with sentience” (126). It would “find ways of outflanking the cost-benefit framework within which, unwittingly, we do so much of our thinking about nature” (127). In his final paragraph, he quotes Canadian poet and philosopher Jan Zwicky on the importance of tactful language—language that sings, touches, affects, and keeps time, “recommending an equality of measure” (127). 

After Macfarlane’s essay comes Alice Oswald’s “Crow Meadow,” a lovely evocation of a field of bulls and buttercups in Devon, and the book’s final chapter, Kathleen Jamie’s essay “On Rona,” about the most western of the Western Isles, an account of a visit to that small place. Jamie and two friends spent some time there, on that now-uninhabited island (by humans: it’s home to grey seals and birds). Among those birds is a colony of rare Leach’s petrels, the nests of which one of Jamie’s friends was counting. Jamie helped, playing the petrel’s call from a tape recorder so that the birds would respond from their nests hidden among the stones. Their numbers, like the numbers of other birds on the island, are falling, rather precipitously. Jamie’s other friend “communed with stones,” particularly the ruined chapel and village (143). That friend, an archaeologist, was trying to determine whether the stone crosses in the graveyard were being stolen and whether the chapel had deteriorated compared to the 1950s. Inside the chapel’s ruins is an oratory with a stone altar. The people who lived there all died suddenly, about 1680. No one knows why. And then, when their time on the island was over, a boat comes, despite the forecast storm, and takes them back. It’s a vivid evocation of a place I’ll never see, and I’m happy to have read it.

So is place writing what I’ve been doing for the past couple of years? I think so—although the places I’ve been writing about are more prosaic than the Isle of Lewis or Rona or a mossy churchyard. I think that’s okay: perhaps all places deserve to be described, experienced, considered valuable. I’m going to carry on studying place-writing, I think, as well as practicing it, and I’m happy to have finally read this book.

Works Cited

Cooper, David, and Rachel Lichtenstein. “What is Place Writing?” Centre for Place Writing, Manchester Metropolitan University, June 2020. https://www.mmu.ac.uk/media/mmuacuk/content/documents/english/What-is-Place-Writing-June-2020.pdf.

Evans, Gareth, and Di Robson. Towards Re-Enchantment: Place and Its Meanings, Artevents, 2010.

Macfarlane, Robert. Landmarks, Hamish Hamilton, 2015.