Thinking About Walking, Space, and Language

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Last night I was thinking about the next step in my walking research, which I’ve had to put on hold because of the pandemic. Instead of long walks in the country, I’ve been making shorter walks in the city. I found myself wondering about the city as a language, and more generally, about the implications of an analogy between space and language. I haven’t studied linguistics, and I’m not that interested in langue, in the larger structure of a language; I studied literature, and perhaps for that reason I’m more interested in parole, in utterances or speech acts, in how people use langue.  But obviously langue and parole are related, or interrelated, in language but also in this spatial analogy. Neither can exist without the other.

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What would the langue of the city be? Its design? A grid of streets in neighbourhoods developed before the 1960s, and curving streets (bays, crescents, circles, cul de sacs) in neighbourhoods developed after that. I’m tempted to connect that urban grid to the larger grid of rural roads imposed by the Dominion Land Survey, but I’m not sure that connection makes sense, given the fact that every nineteenth-century city in North America is, in large part, designed as a grid for efficiency. It’s rare for a city to be old enough that its layout isn’t a grid—Manhattan south of Houston Street, or Quebec City—or for a city to be designed so that streets meet in a central square (Washington, D.C., or Guelph). Rivers and creeks complicate the grid. So do coastlines or harbours or railway lines. But that grid occurs everywhere. It’s not the langue of a particular city; it’s the langue of all cities that were built before the 1940s. Cities constructed after the 1940s combine a grid of major arteries with curving minor streets—at least in residential areas; industrial districts keep to the grid. I’m not convinced that those curving streets say anything about a specific city, since like the grid, they seem to be characteristic of everywhere.

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So I’m not interested in the langue of the city. I’m not a geographer—I’m not even sure that’s what geographers are interested in. I’m interested in its parole. I’ve been photographing odd signs, strange objects, natural phenomena. Are those examples of this city’s parole? I think so. But I need to be careful. Some of the odd or curious things I’ve been photographing are the result of poverty. They are relics of abandonment, of the city’s class divisions, of its ghettoizing of Indigenous peoples, rather than neutral objects that ought to lend themselves to an ironic critique. That critique is easy. To see those curiosities with empathy or care, to see them within that social and economic context—that would be the more appropriate response. I’m not sure I know how to do that. And I wonder if that documentary impulse works against the playfulness that seems to be inherent in mythogeography. Is documenting the city the same as imaginatively rethinking the city? No. But could that imaginative rethinking end up being callous and exploitative and extractive? I think that is a serious risk. How does the city speak of power and class and at the same time how does it speak of resistance to them? Can I really find that resistance in sidewalk scribbles or odd signs or urban jackrabbits?

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Besides, are those photographs really the heart of a walking practice? Isn’t the walking the actual point? Walking—especially outside the city centre, or the recreational areas around the lake or along the creek where it’s encouraged—ends up being an act of resistance, at least potentially. It is slow, inefficient, laborious, reflective; it requires effort and attention. All of those qualities resist what our society prizes: fast, frictionless activity; inattention; ease; efficiency. And if that’s true of an urban walking practice, it must be even more true of a rural walking practice. Walking in rural areas—especially in this province, with its vast distances and sparse population—makes absolutely no sense. That senselessness is perhaps what constitutes its potential for resistance.

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But that resistance can only be symbolic and individual, unless one orchestrates groups of walkers, which is quite possible in the city, where distances are manageable, but more difficult on a grid road in the middle of nowhere. Convivial walking in rural Saskatchewan is complicated; it requires support vehicles and guides and maybe even first aid, and all of that takes time and money to arrange. It’s not impossible to organize—my friend Hugh Henry does a fantastic job of putting group walking events in rural Saskatchewan together—but it’s not easy. The other challenge with convivial walking in rural Saskatchewan might be distance. It takes time to experience this landscape, and that means walking distances that might be difficult or even impossible for some people. I remember very well how exhausting it was to walk 12 kilometres when I first began walking; how my feet would blister after 15 kilometres; how many weeks it takes me to get comfortable walking 20 kilometres or more after a long cold winter. Is it reasonable to expect people to walk such distances as a way of experiencing the land from the vantage point of a grid road? Is 20 kilometres even enough? Doesn’t this particular landscape require an investment of time and energy and sweat before it begins to pay off in understanding and respect and even love? That’s been one of the lessons of walking in rural Saskatchewan, from my perspective—either alone, or with others. Of course walking with others is safer and more enjoyable, but it takes an incredible amount of work and planning to arrange that kind of walk.

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Unless, that is, one is particular about where those walks happen. Maybe walking in Grasslands National Park would require less time and effort and distance than walking along a grid road. Walking in that park might offer a more immediate experience of the land—or at least a part of it. But here’s the problem: a park is a curated landscape. If the point is to encounter the land as it is, rather than as we might imagine it to be, or like it to be, we need to step outside of the park boundaries; we need to trudge along grid roads or highways instead. After all, less than 14 percent of southern Saskatchewan remains grassland, including Grasslands National Park. Most of this land is very different. If we want to see what is there, we can’t remain inside a curated landscape. And given this province’s trespassing laws, and the difficulty of finding landowners to get permission to be on their land, we will find ourselves limited to roads—particularly if we are walking together in a large group. It’s one thing for a single walker to climb through a fence and walk in a pasture without permission; that might be overlooked or explained away as an error. It’s another thing entirely to take a group of people onto private land without making arrangements with the landowner or pasture manager. So outside of those curated spaces, outside of parks, convivial walking is going to be limited to roads.

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But walking in the country is very different from walking in the city, and those differences will affect the terms this essay began with: langue and parole. What is the parole of a rural space? What is its langue? Are grid roads the langue of the land, for instance? Or are they instances of parole? Is the langue the grassland that’s been almost entirely eradicated? Or is that an idealized space that for the most part no longer exists? Aside from the occasional farm or bin yard or sign, the signs of human occupation—a better term would be “Settler occupation”—are the roads, the fences and power poles, the litter in the ditches, and the miles of barley and wheat and canola. Are those examples of langue, or of parole? What defines the land? Does industrial agriculture define it? Or does it have an essence beyond industrial agriculture? Do such essences exist? Perhaps we need to look up at the sky, to the clouds and the wind and the sun, if we are going to experience the land? Or is that a contradiction? What phenomena are included within the category “land”? Does it include the sky? I don’t have answers to any of these questions, even though I’ve been thinking about them for several years, and walking in rural Saskatchewan for even longer. Maybe, if I keep walking and thinking and reading and writing, I’ll start coming up with answers?

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(All photographs are from August walks in summers past. Perhaps the pandemic will have run its course by this coming August.)

Sidewalk Hieroglyphics

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Today’s walk wasn’t very long. Nor was it purposeless. Its goal was the tailor shop from which I had ordered cloth masks to wear during the pandemic. I don’t enjoy them—they are hot and they make my beard itch and my glasses foggy—but if they help slow the spread of the novel coronavirus, those are minor inconveniences.

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Before we turned for home, we found an ice-cream shop that was open. I ended up with a cone of bourbon-and-pecan flavour. It was delicious and the southern theme went along with today’s warm spring weather.

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Today I tried to pay attention to the sidewalk’s signs and wonders: all those scribbles and stampings that mean (or meant) something to someone, even if they suggest little or nothing to me. Perhaps this is one way to approach walking in the city: to focus on one thing at a time. Today, marks on the sidewalk; perhaps tomorrow, house numbers, or messages from one of the utilities, or pieces of wood imitating dead birds, or discarded rubber gloves, or some mixture of all of those.

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To the Edge of the City

It was a sunny spring morning when I left the house. I chatted with a curious rabbit and saw a paddling of ducks—mostly males, for some reason—milling about on the creek. I walked along the creek to a group of willows where once I saw a huge hawk sitting on a horizontal branch. We looked each other in the eye. The bird was only a few feet away, I remember. It glared at me with its cold yellow eye. Then it shat contemptuously and flew away. Its powerful wings made its flight seem lazy and careless. When I walk past those trees, I take out that memory and look at it, and then I put it away again.

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I turned away from the creek and walked north through a series of neighbourhoods I had never seen before. The signs were ironic: one, barely attached to a fence, promised security; another mocked something our prime minister said about spreading the novel coronavirus. I took a selfie, reflected in a Christmas bauble. A stolen licence plate rusted in last fall’s leaves. The wind tugged at my hat and coat. I tasted a winter’s worth of dust.

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Eventually I found myself on a familiar road: a broad thoroughfare that leads to the multiplex in the city’s northwest. I followed it north until it became a gravel grid road. I had reached the edge of the city. The wind blew harder and I chased my hat across a wet ditch into the stubble of last year’s barley.

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Today the city was a tree, and I was counting its rings as I walked. I started in the 1920s, then I walked through the wartime houses of the 1940s and the small frame bungalows of the 1950s. I passed through the 1960s and then the 1970s before finding myself in the 1980s. Then the city skipped ahead to new neighbourhoods before it ended. I thought of something I once read in a book by Will Self:

I’ve taken to long-distance walking as a means of dissolving the mechanized matrix which compresses the space-time continuum, and decouples human from physical geography. So this isn’t walking for leisure—that would be merely frivolous, or for exercise—which would be tedious.

I was “dissolving the mechanized matriculates which compresses the space-time continuum,” too, as I walked today. I was extending space while travelling through time at five kilometres per hour. When I reached the edge of the city, I could see its future: the fields of stubble between the newest development and the highway to Saskatoon were soon to be turned into more tract houses. Maybe that highway will act as a girdle limiting the city’s northward expansion, or maybe the city will leap past it and keep going.

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And then the road curved back towards the city. My feet hurt. I thought about how much farther I wanted to walk—not too much more, I thought. Another two or three hours of walking would have brought me home, but I didn’t think I had that much walking left in me, so I called home for a ride. Christine picked me up in a parking lot lined with stores and restaurants and drove me home. We made tea and shared the last brioche and I wrote these words, wondering again if I’m learning to see the city differently, to read it with fresh eyes. I still can’t tell. I’ll have to keep practicing.

Queen City Sauntering

I went for a longish walk today. I tried, with mixed success, to follow the example set by Phil Smith’s practice of mythogeography, or at least to slow down and look at the city in a new way, with fresh eyes. I did see some odd things: iridescent pigeons and camouflaged mallards, a forester trimming tree branches who reminded me of the man roofing the church steeple in the Al Purdy poem, busy streets and empty sidewalks, closed shops and assertions of business-as-usual, friendly greetings and apocalyptic warnings. I walked until my feet ached and my back hurt. I stopped for a snack and a drink of water, and listened to a large flock of cranes flying north. Then I turned for home.

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Maybe one thing I might be able to take away from the pandemic is a new way of thinking about walking. That might help to make up for having to take a leave of absence from my studies. It’s something worth considering. I’ll think about that idea the next time I go for a walk.

Walking from Pamplona to Logroño

My friends and I are walking virtually through northern Spain. We’re hoping to get to Logroño (I think that’s where we’re headed) by Monday. I think we can do it, but I’m going to have to get walking if I don’t want to get stuck taking a virtual bus to catch up.

Here are some pictures (including my first-ever selfie) from my first walk between Pamplona and Logroño, an 85-kilometre walk through Navarre and Rioja that took several days to complete:

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It was a beautiful walk; the further west we got from the Pyrenees, the hotter and drier the landscape got. We walked through groves of olive trees and vineyards, slept in hostels on bunk beds, ate whatever we were offered and drank cheap and delicious local red wine. There was constantly something new to see, but at the same time, I think we were coming to know the places where we walked with our bodies: the hills, the wind, the hot sun. We made new friendships and chatted with other people we never saw again. I don’t know if I’ll ever have another experience like it.

 

Walking in Basque Country

My friend Geoff Travers posted some photos of walking from St. Jean Pied de Port in France through the Pyrenees to Pamplona on his blog yesterday, and those images have inspired me to dig out the portable drive where my photographs live and post some of my own.

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I’m surprised by how few photographs I actually took over those three or four days of walking—and how few of the ones I did take are worth sharing. I think I tend to get absorbed by the walk (and by conversations with the people I’m walking with) and forget to take pictures. Also, most of my photos from the Pyrenees are foggy from the rain and mist that collected on the lens of my camera. But despite everything, these pictures do help me remember the beginning of my first long walk.

 

Big-Box Pilgrimage

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When big-box home improvement stores arrived in this city 15 years ago, they killed off the local hardware stores where I used to buy nails and get windows reglazed. Now when I need something for the house, I have to go to the edge of town, to a big store surrounded by acres of parking. Today I needed a cap for our sump drain clean-out—the O-ring on the old one has failed—and I made it into a short walking pilgrimage.

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It was a cold day, with the sun playing hide and seek in the clouds. Occasional pellets of snow blew past on the wind. There is still ice on the north sides of buildings and fences and on the edges of the creek. Spring is taking its time getting here. I walked to our allotment garden first. The plants are, quite sensibly, hiding underground: no rhubarb or asparagus or daffodils or echinacea are visible. Then I continued walking south.

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I was thinking about walking in the Basque country in Spain seven years ago. There’s no sheep here, no vineyards, no hills. But there was woodsmoke today. People must’ve been enjoying their fireplaces on this chilly Easter weekend. That smell is the one detail that connects this place with that one—that and the blue sky and the clouds.

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I found what I was looking for—it cost all of $2.25, with tax—and then turned east. I stopped at a south Asian grocery and bought a bag of spicy fried peanuts and ate them as I plodded along the sidewalk. One of those little free libraries boasted a copy of Dickens’s Nicholas Nickleby. If I’d had a bag with me, I would’ve taken it.

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I turned up the street where my friend Philip lives. There he was, raking last fall’s leaves; the early winter snow caught him off-guard, he told me, before he’d had a chance to start raking. I haven’t seen him for a month, not since we were told to stay home because of the pandemic. We talked about our anxiety, and how our lives might change after all of this is over. It was getting colder, and I could feel my muscles, unused to exercise after a sedentary winter, cramping up. We said our goodbyes and I hobbled towards home.

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Home was still an hour’s walk away. A few people were out enjoying the fresh air. Everyone was friendly but guarded. Social distancing—that’s the term epidemiologists use, apparently, rather than “physical distancing,” which some people prefer—is having unintended effects. And then I was home, carrying my souvenirs: a plastic cap and half a bag of spicy peanuts. It’s nice to be warm, sheltered from the wind. Maybe we need to think about what we have, rather than what the pandemic is taking away from us. And maybe I’ll make another walk tomorrow.

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Weeks of Worried Walking

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2020-03-29 10.59.10 copyFor the past few weeks, I’ve been trying to go for walks. Walking helps ease my anxiety about the Covid-19 pandemic–at least sometimes. Other times, despite my intentions, I end up staying in the house, listening to the news and worrying, or trying to manage teaching online, which has turned out to be a lot more work than I had imagined. Turning off the radio, shutting down Facebook, that would help; and yet sometimes it’s very hard to do. And often, when I do get outside, walking doesn’t help. It just gives me a chance to ruminate and play out worst-case scenarios in my mind. I don’t imagine I’m alone in any of this.

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P3280807My first walk, once the sidewalks were free of ice, was a rather long trudge to the university and then around Wascana Lake–long enough that my feet, tender after a winter without much walking, blistered. It was a sunny afternoon, and the path around the lake was packed with people, most of whom had not apparently heard of the term “social distancing.” I haven’t been back there since. Maybe it would be okay early in the morning, or when the weather is bad, but there are other places to walk that are less crowded, and possibly more interesting, too.

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I’ve been for several short walks since then, usually with Christine, along the creek and in the park at the end of our street. They haven’t been long enough to help me shake the sense of impending doom the news leaves me with. Refreshing the Worldometer page on global Covid-19 infections hasn’t helped, either. Watching the global numbers ticking upwards, and the steep upward curve of the graphs–it’s frightening, because there’s nothing that can be done to stop it, except staying home as much as possible. I’m doing that–so are most of us, I think–and yet the number of infections seems to be increasing rapidly.

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Today I think I’ve had some kind of breakthrough. At least, I went for a longish walk out to the city’s northwestern suburbs, where I met Christine at a drug store–we needed dental floss and mouthwash; there was no toilet paper, of course. As walks go, it wasn’t that long, just six kilometres, but I found the pandemic, or my fear about the pandemic, releasing its grip. I even found myself somewhere I hadn’t expected to be; not lost exactly, but surprised, which is a nice feeling in a city where it sometimes feels like I’m been over every possible walking route. I felt my breath, inhaling, exhaling. I thought about the photos Phil Smith posts on Facebook, photos of odd signs and abject, beautiful, and broken things, and I wondered if I could take similar photographs while walking here today. That explains the photos of abandoned objects and trash.

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The point is, even though it wasn’t a long walk, it was productive. I feel better. I tried looking at things differently. I surprised myself. Maybe now I’ll be able to return to the book I started weeks ago and then put down when the bars and restaurants closed and the government asked us to stay home. I’ll take that as a win.

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