Walking on a Hot Summer Morning

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I left the house earlier than I did on Tuesday, but still not early enough to beat the heat. I should’ve set the alarm and left before seven o’clock, but I didn’t, and I dithered at my computer while the sun got higher in the sky. Eventually I tied my boots and started walking. I walked down the alley beside our house and out onto the street behind. Patterns of light and shade dappled the sidewalk underneath the street elms. I noticed a garden of native plants—Canada wild rye, pink onion, sage, fleabane, asters, wild columbine—next to green peppers and rhubarb. Down the street, a line of sunflowers, tall and thin, stood against someone’s front porch. The elm trees made me think of Ariel Gordon’s book, Treed, where she describes the thousands of elm trees Winnipeg loses to Dutch elm disease every year—so many that the infected trees sometimes stand for months, marked by an orange splash of paint, waiting to be removed. This city loses a handful of elms each year, and the dying trees are quickly taken down. Because I was thinking about elms, I took a few photographs of their crowns against the sky.

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Across the street, a gardener was weeding something she had planted in a wire cage, probably to keep the jackrabbits from eating it. The sound of a fountain in a front yard was cool and inviting. A squirrel scrambled up a tree. I put on some sunscreen, leaving my hands greasy. I have to be careful; I’m at the age where I can see where my skin has been damaged by too much sun, and the patches of actinic keratosis on my face—precancerous lesions—remind me that I have been careless in the past. They also remind me that it’s time to make an appointment to get them removed, before they become something nasty. At the corner of 19th Avenue, I ran into Chris, a graduate student in the Department of English who is working for the government while he finishes his degree. We talked about the university’s response to the pandemic and the nonfunctional beg button at the crosswalk on Albert Street. “I’ve waited five minutes for the light to change,” he said. “I don’t think the button is connected to anything.” Chris was headed to work; his job involves a lot of paper files and it’s difficult to do from home. We wished each other a good day and I headed into Wascana Centre.

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I hadn’t planned to walk through the park, but there I was anyway. A flock of geese and gulls was congregated on the lawn next to a bench. On the lake, a lone female mallard was swimming. Sprinklers were watering the grass and the trees, as well as the path. I noticed the memorial for a young man who killed himself in the lake just a few months ago; apparently, when he went to the hospital in distress, he was removed by security. It was during the early days of the pandemic, when everyone was on edge, but the callousness of the hospital staff defies reason. And now that young man is dead. A cyclist passed, and a Bobcat was spreading and smoothing sand along the shore. A broken whiskey bottle lay next to the path. A new, more permanent sign telling pedestrians which way they are supposed to be walking was stuck to the path, and I wondered whether this one-way traffic will be the new normal. 

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I was sweating already. I saw a poster advertising self-guided nature hikes, suitable for children bored by the pandemic’s restrictions. Two kayakers floated past and, behind them, someone was on a stand-up paddleboard. He wasn’t wearing a wet suit, and the water is a dirty green colour; I wouldn’t want to fall in. Maybe he has excellent balance. A faded plaque said very little. I heard the slap of waves against the paddleboard. The bicycle racks at the lookout were empty, but a couple were watching the lake. A Wascana Centre employee parked his truck and strode purposefully towards the lookout. He disappeared through a locked door, and moments later, a machine inside roared to life. A woman pushed her child in a stroller. Joggers and cyclists passed. I was breathing heavily now; it was getting hot in the sun. I stopped to drink some water. 

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At Broad Street, I pressed the beg button and wait to cross. I noticed the way my backpack creaks. I’m carrying a full pack again—three days of food and water and a bivvy sack—and it’s heavy, especially the water. I heard a tractor behind a row of trees and wondered if someone is having their backyard landscaped. Sweat ran into my eyes. I stopped, fished out my handkerchief, and wiped them. Across the road, a row of willows stood; many of their branches were dead after the long winter. A woman with a bluetooth headset seemed to be talking loudly to herself. The skate park was nearly empty; only one small child was skateboarding, watched by his mother. Perhaps the heat was keeping others inside. Two geese were standing nearby. The sidewalk ended and I stepped onto the desire path. Desire paths, according to a tweet by Robert Macfarlane, are “paths & tracks made over time by the wishes & feet of walkers, especially those paths that run contrary to design or planning” (@RobGMacfarlane). The sidewalks in this city tend to be constructed somewhat erratically, and desire paths often take over when the official concrete walkways stop. Behind me, a little girl complained about bees. Sweat was burning my eyes again. 

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Wild liquorice was growing beside the path. I tried to figure out what the shrubs behind it might be. Gooseberries? No, currants, I decided. More sweat had dripped into my eyes. I realize that my shirt was soaked with sweat. The soft dirt path was capturing footprints perfectly. A bird was singing in a nearby chokecherry tree, but I couldn’t tell what kind. The song seemed familiar. Was it a goldfinch? I walked closer, peering into the leaves. I whispered to the unseen bird. And then, there is was: an American goldfinch. How did I guess that? The white flowers of bindweed covered the grass, and on the lake a chorus of geese began honking and just as suddenly stopped. 

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The heat reminded me of my walk to Wood Mountain two years ago. I found the notebook I kept during that walk recently, and it tells a different story from the blog entries I posted here. The heat made walking very difficult. I would bargain with myself: get to that next hay bale in the ditch and then you can sit down, I would say. The worst day, of course, was the one when I ran out of water. It was arduous, but I did it anyway. How? Was I that much fitter two years ago? More determined? My pack must’ve been heavier; I would’ve been carrying more gear, more food, and eventually, more water, too. Across the lake I could hear a loud machine running. A newly paved parking lot sat across the road. The only other people in view was a family out for a walk. One of their toddlers was grizzling. 

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A large fly hit me in the face and kept on with its journey. Sunflowers were growing in the grass beside the path on one of the city’s two hills. This one was made out of material taken from Wascana Lake when it was deepened in the 1930s; the other is the landfill. Usually I would see runners sprinting up the desire paths on the hill, building their strength; today no one was around, probably because of the heat. Then a group of cyclists passed me. My friends Kathryn and Paul-Henrik were among them. We stopped to chat; we’re going to meet tonight for a drink. They have no car and cycle everywhere, a brave decision in this city. I stepped over a ladybug on the path. Crickets were singing in the uncut grass of the conservation area; the neatly mown lawn next to it was silent. 

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I saw a single bur oak beside path—along with trembling aspens, my favourite tree—and I took a photograph. Ahead I could see the bridge over the Ring Road. My eyes were burning again. I passed more bur oaks between a grove of poplars and some Colorado blue spruce trees.  More people were walking on the path now, despite the heat. I climbed the hill to the overpass. Someone had thrown trash beside the highway, on the other side of a fence; thistles were in flower beside the path. Yellow-flowered clematis was climbing the fence, and a bee was fumbling the blossoms. A city employee was smoking a cigarette beside her parked vehicle; she crushed the butt with her foot, climbed in, and drove away. A white cabbage moth flew towards me. I noticed that my notepad was getting sweaty. I was approaching one of my favourite places to walk: a gravel path beside Assiniboine Avenue. A row of poplars and willows had been brutally pruned underneath a power line, and I thought about Ariel Gordon’s notion that the artificial trees represented by power poles take precedence over living trees. A broken and abandoned umbrella was lying on the grass, bearing a cartoon of the Incredible Hulk. Nearby a ripening tomato lay next to a telephone switching box. At the corner, a short funeral procession was heading into the cemetery across the street; there were few cars, probably because of Covid-19 restrictions. I pushed the beg button and waited to cross. When the light changed, I turned and began the long slog down University Park Drive.

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Under the ash trees planted next to the sidewalk it was shady, and a cool breeze blew from the north. A dog in a window barked at me. A vintage Chrysler Imperial cruised past. It was garbage day, and a row of wheelie bins—plastic soldiers of waste management—was lined up in a row along the curb. Another garage was being added to a house. The weight of my pack threw me off when I turned to take a photograph, and I realized that, without walking poles, I need to be careful. I pressed the beg button at Arcola Avenue and waited to cross. The sky was cloudless and the pavement shimmered in the heat. Kids on BMX bikes were waiting on the other side of the wide street for the light to change. When it did, the light was barely long enough for us all to make our crossing. I notice a sign: Body Sculpting Regina. Thirty years ago, I looked like a Giacometti sculpture; today I look more like a Henry Moore. Somehow, though, I don’t think that’s the kind of sculpting they have in mind.

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I pressed yet another beg button at Truesdale Drive. The xeriscape beside the sidewalk amounted to a stretch of weedy gravel reflecting heat in my direction. I longed for the cool breeze I felt when I turned onto University Park Drive. Then there was no shade at all; I was walking alongside a bald park through which Pilot Butte Creek runs. The air was like a furnace. The breeze reappeared and then disappeared just as quickly. At Arens Road I pressed another beg button. A lawnmower was rumbling across the road. It was too hot to take more photographs. I stopped for lunch and, as I ate, I wondered how much farther I could go. I wasn’t sure I could walk all the way back home—not in this heat. Because we’re going out tonight, I didn’t want to risk heat exhaustion; it makes me unpleasant company. After eating, I made my decision: I would walk to the drugstore in the mall across the way, buy some necessaries, and call home for a ride. Sometimes discretion is the better part of valour.

Works Cited

@RobGMacfarlane. “Word(s) of the day: desire lines.” Twitter, 25 March 2018, 12:00 a.m., https://twitter.com/RobGMacfarlane/status/977787226133278725.

Gordon, Ariel. Treed: Walking in Canada’s Urban Forests, Wolsak & Wynn, 2019.

 

Carrying the Weight Walk

I’m planning a walk before the summer ends—not a very long walk, just a few days, but long enough that I need to do something to get ready, since a six weeks or more of sitting and writing has done less than nothing to help me prepare. So this morning I left the house carrying a full pack to see how far I could go. 

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Christine and I walked together as far as our allotment garden. We passed a young woman painting a mural on a fence. We told her about the mural on our garage; she has seen it. Down the alley, I noticed a large planting of junipers with delphiniums and ferns breaking through, along with the inevitable sow thistles. An invasion or life doing what it does, or both? Christine wanted to show me a new way of walking to the allotment, and we passed a front yard vegetable garden, neatly planted in wooden raised beds. How much better is that compared to a lawn? 

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We cut through a park that runs beside the stormwater drainage channel and arrived at the allotment. Our corn is high, although there are no flowers yet, and the squash is doing well. The pole beans, which are supposed to climb up the corn, are mostly missing in action. Maybe that’s just as well, because the last time I tried the three-sisters technique, the beans pulled the corn plants over. It’s all about balance. While Christine started watering the plot, I pulled sow thistle out of the potatoes. That stuff is everywhere.

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I left Christine to her watering—she finds it meditative—and carried on walking south. I passed a stand of trembling aspen—my favourite tree, I think—that I’d never noticed before, and cut through a parking lot. The ditches beside Pasqua Street are wet, and I noticed a discarded blue surgical mask on a lawn. It was a hot day, and the farther I walked, the heavier my packed seemed to get. Soon I was breathing heavily, happy to stop to take notes because it gave me a chance to rest. I should be starting getting ready for this walk more gradually, I told myself, slowly developing strength and fitness, but there’s no time for that; the summer will be over before I know it.  A hot wind was blowing from the south. No birds were singing. I only heard the sounds of traffic and the humming of air conditioners. I was wondering where the birds had gone when I startled a half dozen grey partridges that had been resting in somebody’s shady front yard. They flew up into the air squawking, their wings creaking. A crow laughed behind me.

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A broken streetlight was lying on the sidewalk. I saw graffiti on a wooden fence, but when I turned to look, it was only a pattern of knots in the pine boards. Asters—a native plant—graced a plot of sow thistles and quack grass beside a driveway. A muscle car grumbled and snorted. A license plate from a motorcycle was leaning against a stoplight; it hinted at a story without disclosing the plot. I pressed the begging button at Lewvan Drive and waited to cross. The walk signal there is short; I had barely taken three steps into the intersection before it started flashing red. The city’s roads department doesn’t care for pedestrians, it seems, or else it doesn’t think about them. 

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I walked into the Grasslands retail development and ate lunch. Afterwards, when I left the air-conditioned dining room—restaurants are now allowed to let customers eat inside, as long as only half of the tables are available for use—it felt hotter than before, and my pack even heavier. I turned east. Irrigation spigots on the boulevard were spraying the road and the crosswalk’s begging button. An abandoned Walmart shopping cart rested next to a bench and a garbage can. I crossed Lewvan Drive again and noticed a crow roosting at the top of a poplar tree. Across the street, dead trees reminded me that this city was originally a grassland and not a forest. An orange Shelby Mustang from the 1960s was parked under a shady tree, and I thought about Steve McQueen and Bullitt. Wrong colour, and the wrong car, too, if you want to get picky, but it’s the kind of car he would’ve driven. Sidewalk trash advertised its organic credentials. A fake wishing well hosted colourful petunias. City crews were noisily cutting grass on a boulevard.

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After just ten kilometres, the heat and the weight convinced me to call it a day. I walked to a Starbuck’s, bought an iced coffee, and called home for a ride. I sat outside. People around me were talking about the pandemic and how it had affected their plans for September. That’s only a month away. I have to get ready for fall. More importantly, I have to get ready for my walk. I can’t rush this after all, I realized. I’m going to have to take some time and get ready slowly.

Walking to a Wasteland

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(photograph courtesy of Google Streetview; I forgot my camera this afternoon)

I’m taking a writing course this week through the Sage Hill Writing Experience. Every day we are given things to read and exercises to do. Today’s exercise was to read Erica Violet Lee’s “In Defence of the Wastelands: A Survival Guide,” and then to go to a wasteland—defined by Tanis MacDonald, our instructor, as any place without a commercial purpose—and observe it for 15 or 20 minutes. For Lee, wastelands are spaces of destruction and resistance; they are “considered not simply unworthy of defence, but deserving of devastation,”

places where no medicines grow, only plants called “weeds.” A wasteland is a place where, we are taught, there is nothing and no one salvageable. . . . Wastelands are spaces deemed unworthy of healing because of the scale and amount of devastation that has occurred there.

Wastelands are named wastelands by the ones responsible for their devastation.

Lee develops a “wastelands theory” that contends “that there is nothing and no one beyond healing. So we return again and again to the discards, gathering scraps for our bundles, and we tend to the devastation with destabilizing gentleness, carefulness, softness.” Caring for the wastelands, she continues, “is about gathering enough love to turn devastation into mourning and then, maybe, turn that mourning into hope.” Hope, she writes, “is knowing there is more to living than surviving; believing that some worlds must exist for us beyond survival.”

It’s a beautiful essay, and it, along with the assignment I’ve been given, are the reasons I’m walking south on Albert Street on this hot afternoon. There’s an east wind, but it isn’t cooling anything. I cross the bridge over Wascana Creek; the water is pea-green and stagnant, with no outflow from the lake splashing over the dam, despite the recent rain. Canadian flags—leftover from July 1—snap in the breeze. The traffic on Albert Street, the city’s main north-south artery, is busy; the city is coming back to life after the long weeks of the lockdown.

South of Wascana Creek I walk in the dappled shade of elm trees whose leaves have been chewed by cankerworms. A brick, still bearing the mortar that held it in place, lies on the sidewalk. A house is being renovated, and two doors down another house is for sale. Mushrooms are growing at the base of an elm tree. I notice a sign, taped to a light pole, that reads: “2020 Isn’t the End of the World, It’s the Start of A New One.” There is a drawing of an open eye underneath “World,” and I wonder what the connection between eyes and worlds might be. A crow glides out of an elm tree, settles on the sidewalk, and then hops into the road, complaining.

Puddles on the sidewalk and in the gutter testify to someone’s overzealous watering of their lawn. Our water is piped 100 miles from Lake Diefenbaker, but so many of us don’t think about that when we turn on the tap. I take a deep breath; the air has no scent, unless heat is a scent. Why not? A red pickup truck almost hits a small sedan, and horns honk. Another house has a “for sale” sign on the lawn. The flowerbed next to the sidewalk is sad, choked with creeping bellflower. If this city had a floral icon, it would have to be creeping bellflower. That stuff is everywhere someone has tried to plant something else. These are among the most expensive houses in the city, and yet many of their gardens and lawns are uncared for and abandoned. Are the houses empty? Do the owners put all their energy into their back gardens, ceding the front yards to the traffic noise and exhaust? I read some graffiti on a concrete wall blocking someone’s front yard from the street: “ZAIRE.” A long string of yellow caution tape runs from a no parking sign to a broken bench underneath a bus stop.

The southbound lanes are blocked by signs reading “CONSTRUCTION,” but I see only two workers. They’re doing something to the sidewalk, but exactly what they’re doing isn’t clear. The sidewalks definitely need repair; they’re heaved and broken with large holes where boulevard trees have died and not been replaced. I get closer and see that the two fellows are replacing some interlocking brick that makes one corner look fancier than the others. Only aesthetics, then; form rather than function. Sow thistle is about to bloom and a discarded blue surgical mask lies beside a juniper bush.

I suddenly smell hot asphalt, but I can’t tell where it’s coming from; I can’t see any paving work going on, any roofing. Two city workers are checking a water line. A cyclist speeds past me on the sidewalk. The wind is suddenly cooler, blowing from the south, but at the same time clouds are approaching from the northwest. It’s supposed to rain tonight, and those clouds look like the beginnings of a storm. At the corner of 25th Street, I smell cut grass and, even more powerful, the sour smell of cut weeds.

At the crosswalk, I push the begging button and wait to cross the street. Heat rises from the pavement. I can see my quarry, my wasteland, sandwiched between a white strip mall—its tenants include a Robin’s Donuts, a pizza place, Filipino and Indian stores, and the Funeral and Cremation Services Council of Saskatchewan—and a new hotel covered in buff-coloured stucco. It’s a vacant lot. I forget exactly what used to be here; I think it was a gas station, and then a Jiffy Lube. I look at the space from the sidewalk. There’s a large shallow hole close to the sidewalk, and I wonder if that’s where the foundations of the Jiffy Lube might have been, or if that’s where the gas tanks were removed. There are two puddles in that hole; a crow drops something into one of them and then fishes it back out again.

Between the sidewalk and the hole, the dirt is covered in foxtail barley and yellow sweet clover. My field guide to grassland plants tells me that foxtail barley is a native perennial that “flourishes in disturbed places” (Vance, Jowsey, McLean, and Switzer 334). A plant of the wasteland then. Yellow sweet clover is an introduced plant, brought to the prairies as cattle feed (Vance, Jowsey, McLean, and Switzer 142). That’s hard to understand; surely there was a lot for cattle to eat on a grassland that supported millions of bison, but Settlers have introduced many plants—sow thistle and creeping bellflower among them—for obscure reasons. Maybe they were homesick for the plants they left behind. Most of the weeds I struggle with in my allotment garden are introductions from Europe and Asia. Make of that what you will.

A dirt path cuts through the north side of the lot. It looks like a short cut between the apartment buildings behind the lot and Albert Street. A sign next to the sidewalk bears an important message: “FOR LEASE.” I’m supposed to be looking for land without a commercial purpose, but this lot is on some company’s list of assets; if I called the number on the sign, I could find out what it’s going for. Not its worth, though—that’s a different calculation.

I walk into the lot. I notice two mallard ducks standing in one of the puddles at the bottom of the hole. The male is sleeping; his spouse is watching me carefully. The ground is dry and cracked. At the back of the lot, I notice a pile of concrete and wonder if it’s the remainders of the Jiffy Lube. There are scrubby weeds and something that looks like hairy golden aster or rabbitbrush, two native species of wildflowers, but probably isn’t. I rarely find interesting native plants in the city; there are too many seeds from introduced plants in the soil. Still, you never now; I could come back when they bloom in a couple of weeks. I walk away from the ducks and I can see the female relax. Soon she’s sleeping, like her mate.

Now the ground is covered in a weed bearing tiny yellow flowers. I wonder what it is. My field guide is silent on this point, and I loaned my guide to western Canadian weeds to a friend and never got it back. I’m closer to the broken concrete now: along with smaller pieces, there are two huge footings, scraps of girders sticking out of them. I don’t think they came from the Jiffy Lube. They’re too big, too permanent. I see some broken asphalt piled there, too. I wonder if someone has been dumping their garbage here, even though Albert Street is busy and the lot fairly visible. I suddenly realize that there isn’t a lot of garbage or litter in the lot; a few fast-food wrappers, a broken curtain rod, a long piece of lumber. Not much at all, really, for a place surrounded by stores and restaurants. Places with a human presence usually have traces of that presence, in the form of the garbage people leave behind. Maybe nobody comes here. Maybe this wasteland has become invisible to the people walking or driving past.

Behind a row of concrete barriers at the very back of the lot, there’s a row of trees—Manitoba maples and pines—and another row runs between the hotel and the lot I’m standing in. One dead tree lies over a concrete barrier. I can hear the voices of kids playing on one of the apartment balconies. I walk closer to the pile of broken concrete and surprise a jackrabbit. It jumps up and runs away, startling me, too. Behind me, a crow caws.

Several thistles are about to bloom. I see two more jackrabbits, larger than the other one, crouching on the dirt, so perfectly camouflaged as to be nearly invisible. They are perfectly still but watching me intently. I turn away from them; I don’t want them to get scared and run into the traffic. A telephone pole with no wires attached stands on the other side of the lot. I can hear a handsaw slowly cutting through a board or a pipe. A crow in a tree above the rabbits cries out. The ducks are wading in the puddle now, drinking the muddy water. A passing car plays what seems to be loud mariachi music and then it’s quiet again.

I step over two huge dandelion plants that have yet to flower. A bald man cuts through the lot on the dirt track from the apartments, wearing a hoodie despite the heat. He turns the corner of the strip mall and disappears from view. I look down and see that there are dried pellets of rabbit poop everywhere. The plant I couldn’t recognize, the plant that covers this side of the lot, must be something they like to eat. I’ll bet they gather here after dark to feed. From this angle, I can see that the shallow hole has a round end and a rectangular end, kind of like a key or an ankh. I check my watch. I’ve been taking notes for 20 minutes. I’m hot and thirsty and I’ve perspired through my shirt. I walk out to the cracked concrete sidewalk and turn north, towards home.

Works Cited

Lee, Erica Violet. “In Defence of the Wastelands: A Survival Guide.” Guts, 30 November 2016. http://gutsmagazine.ca/wastelands/.

Vance, F.R., J.R. Jowsey, J.S. McLean, and F.A. Switzer. Wildflowers Across the Prairies, Greystone, 1999.